When Melbourne, Australia-based landscape designer Ben Scott first saw a newly built farmhouse on a 20-acre property about an hour’s drive south from the city, there was no garden to speak of. The only existing feature he had to work with was a stand of slender, native eucalyptus trees with a strong, architectural silhouette.
That was in 2012—and luckily the trees were all the inspiration he needed.
The result? A hazy, romantic landscape where texture and shape play as important a role as any color. Tightly pruned, round shrubs complement the matchstick trunks of the eucalyptus trees. Velvety green ground cover envelops the slopes surrounding the house and guesthouse. Formality gives way to wildness at the edges of the garden, where the surrounding bush frames a distant view to Western Port Bay on the Mornington Peninsula.
“I look to designers who use plants as the focus in their work,” says Scott. “I count Bernard Trainor in the US, Dan Pearson in the UK, Wolfgang Oehme in Germany, and Piet Oudolf in the Netherlands as strong influences.”
In 2016, new owners bought the property—and loved the design so much that they’ve asked Scott to expand its scope. Let’s take a look at the latest improvements:
Trailing ground cover Convolvulus sabatius (blue rock bindweed) adds a contrasting color which stands out dramatically against the many shades of green.
Are you designing a garden from scratch (or overhauling an existing landscape)? Start with inspiration from our curated guides to Garden Design 101, for help choosing Perennials, Shrubs, and just the right color of Gravel to complement the rest of the landscape.
See more of our favorite drought-tolerant gardens in Australia:
An outdoor shower gets lonely in the winter. Pipes freeze, and by late November you start to wonder why you ever installed it in the first place. Enter the pop-up outdoor shower. Without a need for fixed plumbing, these showers hook up to a standard garden hose and at the end of summer, get pulled into the shed or garage to wait for the following year. Here are 10.
See our curated design guide to Swimming Pools 101 for more design ideas. For more on outdoor showers see our posts:
“There isn’t another site like this available anywhere near Portland, Maine,” said Russell Tyson of Whitten Architects, “and it’s the site that makes this house so unique.”
He’s describing a jaw-dropping 36 acres perched along the oceanfront in Scarborough, Maine, the site of many native habitats—rocky coastline, woods, wetlands, and meadows included. Most of the land is in a conservation trust to preserve its natural character, but that didn’t deter the owners, a young couple with two children who wanted a weekend retreat that was “the antithesis of their high-rise life in New York City.” Two acres could be developed, so they removed an existing 1980s house that had “no sort of relationship to the landscape,” said Tyson, the project architect. In its stead, they designed a four-bedroom, mostly single-story house and detached car barn with guest quarters above.
Whitten partnered with landscape architect Todd Richardson to create a strong connection between the house and landscape. They knew each other well and had collaborated before, so they designed the project’s indoor and outdoor elements in tandem. “Here, the exterior spaces were just as important as the interior ones,” said Tyson. Let’s take a look.
Photography by Trent Bell except where noted, courtesy of Whitten Architects.
The site was once part of a farm, full of rolling meadows that drop down to the shore.
The previous house had an asphalt parking lot prominently featured in front; in contrast, said the architect, “we wanted you to park your car and forget about it for the rest of the time you are here.”
The landscape architect chose native plants that thrive in this part of Maine.
The house is framed in Douglas fir and stained in Cabot Nantucket White. The decking is water-resistant ipe wood, and the roof is standing seam metal in slate gray.
Honed dark granite used as flooring in the main living space “spills” outside into the landscape, said Richardson. The design is “hard to differentiate in a way you typically might between indoors and out,” he said.
Pitch pine, the predominant tree on the property, is prevalent along the coast of Maine.
“The house is the pivot point between the woodland and agrarian landscapes,” said Richardson. “It touches a different environment on each side.”
“The most important thing to the clients was that the house not be an impediment to getting outside,” said the architect. “So you can get outdoors from as many locations in the house as possible.”
In Process
For more of our favorite landscapes in Maine, see:
When I visit large gardens, I am in awe of their beauty—as well as the work that is required to make and keep them gorgeous. It makes me privately feel a bit smug that my own little yard is so manageable. But there are other times—like when I visit New York City’s High Line park, where grasslands grow above the city streets of in Chelsea—when I yearn for enough space to hold swaths of native plants. I would like a garden that can lure butterflies and birds on a major scale. I would like to witness a miracle each year, when a carpet of tender green springtime shoots transforms by the end of the growing season into waves of papery seed heads.
This brings me to little bluestem grass.
Among the indigenous species of perennial grasses that are the natural denizens of meadows, little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) stands out. This plant needs little care, is remarkably unfussy about soil and moisture, and all on its own, without any intervention by gardeners, puts on a colorful show in each and every season of the year.
Is little bluestem grass the right plant for your garden? Read on to find out:
Schizachyrium scoparium (formerly known as Andropogon scoparius) is a native of the North American prairie and is said to be found everywhere in the US except for Nevada, Oregon, and Alaska. It is one of those vigorous long-rooted grasses which anchored and enriched the deep soil, luring the settlers west to claim their homesteads and establish farms after the Civil War. Although it has a rather unprepossessing appearance, this plant is an awesome force for holding the earth in place. Its roots can extend down as far as 5 feet and it forms firmly anchored 18-inch clumps which spread through self-seeding.
Little bluestem gets its name from a tinge of blue that appears at the base of its slender, flat blue-green leaves in spring. As it matures to a height of 2 or more feet, it develops a distinctive blue-green color which eventually becomes striking bronze-orange or even burgundy in autumn.
Flower stalks appear in mid to late summer and rise above the plant by a foot or more. The flowers are understated 3-inch purplish bronze racemes that dangle in the breeze. In winter the foliage fades to beige and the plant is distinguished by clusters of fluffy white seed heads that sparkle in the sun.
Cheat Sheet
Little bluestem is an excellent choice for meadows and prairie-style gardens and is also recommended for use in rain gardens.
With such a mighty root system, little bluestem grass is frequently planted in disturbed areas such as river banks, slopes, and urban trail landscapes to prevent erosion.
S. scoparium works well planted en masse and with asters such as Michaelmas daisies, and with other flowering natives including Coreopsis tripteris, pale purple coneflower (Echinacea pallida), Mohr’s rosinweed (Silphium mohrii) and orange coneflower (Rudbeckia fulgida).
The dried foliage and flower stalks of little bluestem grass should be cut back to make way for the new spring foliage—but not until late March because the seeds provide winter food for song birds.
Little bluestem attracts butterflies and other pollinators, but is not appealing to deer.
Keep It Alive
Plant little bluestem grass in full sun in USDA zones 3 to 9.
Little bluestem tolerates a wide range of soils including clay, but needs good drainage and cannot thrive in shade or wetlands.
This plant has minimal water needs and, once established, tolerates both drought and high humidity.
As a warm-season type of grass, little bluestem can be late to appear in spring and grows best when temperatures are 80 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter.
It will self seed but can also be propagated by seed or, in early spring, by division.
A number of little bluestem cultivars are available and include some short varieties for smaller gardens. ‘Carousel’, which has a broad shape, is only 1.5 feet high, reaching a maximum height of 2.5 feet in bloom; ‘Prairie Blues’ is the same height but can exceed 3 feet tall when in flower.
“The Blues” is a popular cultivar with gorgeous blue green foliage. It was originally chosen by Dutch designer Pete Oudolf for the High Line but was later replaced by ‘Standing Ovation’, which is taller, more upright, and better able to withstand the harsh High Line climate.
Little bluestem is not to be confused with big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii), which was the dominant species of the tall grass prairie. It is a warm-season perennial with similar cultivation needs similar to little bluestem, but it grows taller (up to 9 feet) and spreads by rhizomes. It gets its nickname, Turkeyfoot, from the shape of its flower (which is structured in three parts and does in fact somewhat resemble the foot of that large bird).
Are you trying to choose the best perennial grass for a garden? See more of our favorite species in our curated guides Grasses 101 in our Garden Design 101 guides. Read more:
I once had a vegetable garden. It was small and cute (roughly four by six feet), slightly raised, and enclosed by four thin planks of wood. The best part? It had come with the house, and presumably, all that needed to be done was plant seeds and, as they say, just add water. I did till the ground before I planted. That much I knew. I only wish I had known more.
That spring, I planted carrots, cucumbers, green beans, rosemary, kale, and bok choy. It was the bok choy that I looked forward to the most. Growing up in a Chinese-American household, I ate the vegetable at least weekly; I wanted to make it a staple for my kids, too.
One day, I checked in on my fledgling garden and discovered little yellow flowers sprouting from the tops of the bok choy. Cute, I thought. A week later, they towered over the leaves, which were still in their infancy. I called my mom, who, as usual, was full of bad news. “It’s too late. You can’t eat them now,” she said. I rolled my eyes. I Googled. And I discovered my mom hadn’t exaggerated after all. My bok choy—and my kale, too, as it turned out—had bolted.
What happens when an edible plant bolts?
When a vegetable or herb bolts, it has prematurely gone to seed and is now spending more of its energy growing the flowers and seeds than the leaves (leaves are what you want from edible plants). Bolting produces plants that are tough, woody, and bitter—basically inedible. The edibles that are most at risk of bolting tend to be leafy crops that thrive in cooler temperatures (see last week’s The Garden Decoder: What Is a ‘Cool-Season Crop’?). Why? Read on.
What causes bolting?
Hot weather and longer days are the biggest culprits—which explains why cool-season crops are likeliest to bolt. When temperatures rise above 70 degrees Fahrenheit and there’s prolonged daylight, these plants go into survival mode and quickly switch their focus to producing seeds.
Not surprisingly, bok choy and kale are cool-season crops; I had planted my garden in the middle of spring, closer to summer than winter, and not early spring, as recommended by gardening guides and my more gardening-savvy friend, who, when I told her my plans, politely remarked, “Oh, they usually do well in colder weather, but I’m sure they’ll be fine!” (Note to friend: Next time, tell me when I’m doing something dumb.)
How do you prevent bolting?
For cool-season crops, time your planting for either early spring or late summer/early fall, so vegetables can mature in cool weather. You also can try to keep the soil temperature down by topping it with mulch and watering regularly. If you insist on growing cold-loving crops such as lettuce in the summer (it’s salad season, after all), plant them where there’s some shade. Also, you can discourage bolting if you continually harvest (pick the outside leaves) and trim seed shoots if you see them. Last, consider choosing varieties that aren’t predisposed to bolt; they’re often marketed as “slow-to-bolt” seeds.
Imagine how useful it would be to have a big, deep coat closet in your garden. For inspiration, consider Julie’s made-from-a-kit shed in Mill Valley, California (shown in the photo above). As you can see, she has kitted it out with shelves, hooks, and plenty of wall space for pegs.
Like a coat closet, a wooden garden shed can hold (and hide from view) all sorts of stuff you own: tools, off-duty hoses, and mucky boots. Not to mention bikes, pool equipment, bamboo garden stakes, balls of twine, and that bag of muddy dahlias you just dug up. If you’re the organizing type (and we are), you can putter for hours, putting everything in order while you wait for spring.
Here are 10 of our favorite small wooden sheds to assemble and tuck into a corner of a garden:
Are you checking off autumn garden cleanup and rehab projects? See more ideas in our curated guides to Garden Design 101, with inspiration to help you plan upgrades to Outdoor Lighting 101 and curb appeal fixes for Exteriors & Facades. Read more:
Houseplants may be the single most important element of interior design: when deployed effectively, they can add depth, height, and airiness to any room. Here are 10 ingenious ways (culled from our archives) that houseplants can make any room look bigger:
Indoor plants for “low-light conditions” are tolerant of living in a dark apartment with one wall of windows (or possibly, one window). At the same time, their presence suggests sunlight even where little exists.
Says Summer Rayne Oakes: no surface should be off limits to plants: let them spill over the edges of shelves. Let them jockey for space with the tea kettle. See more of her 700-plant collection in Living with Houseplants: Four Years Later in a Brooklyn Apartment.
Alexa discovers “an apartment in São Paulo designed by architecture firm Felipe Hess features a compact kitchen opening onto a humble dining area. We like the look so much that we set out to re-create it with similar elements, both vintage and new.” Recreate the look in Steal This Look: Kitchen/Dining Room in São Paulo.
Simple floor lamps with white drum shades are too hard to come by, writes Alexa. No more. She rounds up her 10 favorites in this week’s 10 Easy Pieces post.
Move aside, fronds, grasses, and seedpods. Just when it looked as if wispy foliage had taken floral arrangements hostage for the season, we noticed something surprising: blowsy billows of hydrangeas.
Hydrangeas are the comfort food of flowers. Impossibly frumpy and fusty, these bobblehead pompoms are the antidote to the slender, the desiccated, and the severe dried floral arrangements currently in fashion. We’re ready for a little coddling, and so are our favorite interior designers, stylists, and architects.
Here are eight of-the-moment ways (culled from our archives) to style old-fashioned hydrangeas to warm up a room:
Interior designers (and self-proclaimed Japanophiles) Roman and Williams got their start in Hollywood, and still bring a set designer’s critical eye to every product they choose for both their online shop and their downtown Manhattan Guild emporium and restaurant.
We’re currently craving a hand-forged folding Japanese gardening knife they came across on their travels in the Banshu region in the Hyogo prefecture of Japan:
In the garden, use the folding knife to prune, trim, and cut back perennials and small shrubs.
The knife’s design “has remained unchanged since the Meiji period (1868-1912),” say Roman and Williams.
Upgrading your garden tools (or looking for tips on how to clean, sharpen, and maintain your collection in the off-season)? Read more:
(In her monthly column for the Wall Street Journal, Gardenista editor Michelle Slatalla tackles interior and exterior design challenges. In this installment, she wonders how important it really is to unplug in nature. Hear her out (and see the original in the Wall Street Journal).
It’s very cold and lonely in the middle of the night in my backyard, where I am standing as I beg my eight-week-old puppy to empty his bladder so we can both go back to bed.
“Be a good boy,” I whisper-yell, trying not to wake the neighbors as I peer through the darkness toward the spot where I last saw a tiny, big-eared dog hop through the grass in pursuit of a leaf that needed a pouncing.
I wish I had something to do out here, like watch TV or listen to music or text a fuzzy photo of the puppy to my husband, who is asleep but if his phone buzzed might wake up and come out to relieve me until the dog relieves himself.
A burgeoning trend among Americans is to turn the backyard into the living room and, weirdly, I’m starting to see the point. Maybe it’s sleep deprivation, but a weatherproof TV is starting to sound good to me.
CE Pro, a trade magazine that covers the custom electronics industry, reported a 44 percent growth in outdoor installations last year as more people installed outdoor wi-fi hubs and ran underground cable to extend the reach of their indoor audio and visual equipment. There are lawn-embedded charging stations (which I could use right now, since my phone’s power level is at an ominously low 4 percent). There is even an intriguing, though ugly, stereo speaker shaped like a rock, which might look OK at the base of my rose bushes.
“Maybe we should investigate surround sound for the garden,” I said to my husband the next morning (and three more trips to the backyard later). “With the right infrastructure, we could have a wall-mount plasma flat screen.”
“Nice try,” he replied. “But you’re not getting me to take over your night shifts with a little CE sweet talk. Besides, the neighbors would complain about the light pollution.”
“We could put the TV under a pergola or something,” I said. “It’s boring out there—I’d rather be watching ‘Brockmire.’”
“Who are you?” he asked, but I could tell he was a tiny bit thrilled. He does love consumer electronics.
It’s true that the woman my husband married believed that gardens are for gardening. I used to say that humans lose some of our nature when we give up on nature—and technology is a threat to all the things I love about being in nature (unplugging, listening to birdsong, growing things). Outdoors, the best audio is the wind rustling through the redwoods.
But the more I looked into it, the more I wondered if I had been a reactionary. The indoors-ification of the outdoors has been happening more or less consistently since the early days of civilization—with or without me. The ancient Greeks built open-air theaters where audiences were exposed to live plays and post-sundown breezes that likely made those who forgot to bring a sweater (or whatever they wore over their togas) wish they were home indoors.
Making it easier to do indoor activities outside is a major trend in garden design now, according to a 2018 American Society of Landscape Architects survey of 808 members who ranked the projects clients are clamoring for this year. “Flexible-use space for yoga class, movie night, etc.” and mobile charging stations were two outdoor amenities that made the top 10 list of items with highest consumer demand. Traditional backyard recreational centers such as swimming pools, tennis courts, and hammocks did not.
What the survey results are telling us, says Washington, D.C.-based landscape architect Jennifer Horn, is that “in the past, people felt like they just had to adapt to their landscapes and now are more interested in making their gardens adapt to their lifestyles.”
So what could make life with a puppy more bearable in my backyard?
For one thing, a kitchen. Gone are the days of the humble outdoor grill. This year the Char-Broil Co., whose portable outdoor cookers stoked post-WWII America’s newfound ardor for backyard barbecues, has brought to market a build-your-own modular outdoor kitchen system you can customize to fit your space with a choice of two sizes of gas grills, stovetop burners, a refrigerator, running water, and a charging outlet for a mobile phone.
The idea behind the Char-Broil modular kitchen system, said product manager Robert Hawkins, is to give consumers all the choices available in a high-end, built-in outdoor kitchen—a new favorite among the architect-hiring set—for a more affordable price. “This is a DIY project, for consumers who maybe don’t have $10,000 to pay a contractor. You don’t need a plumber or an architect. You can add modules one at a time, seasonally, and run numerous extension cords to power them.”
Numerous extension cords? While the affordable price was a lure (for $599, the stovetop module has a rust-resistant burner and 65,000 BTUs), I hate extension cords. Even one is too many.
Maybe that stereo speaker shaped like a rock was the answer?
The Nuvo collection features a variety of outdoor stereo speakers from France-based manufacturer Legrand, which are covered in molded rubber meant to disguise them as small boulders. Sadly, however, Fritz Werder, a Legrand vice president and general manager, told me that they’re being phased out.
“They looked fake,” he said. “Industrial design is important.” He added that Legrand’s industrial designers are creating a new generation of stereo speakers to blend in better, mounted under the eaves of houses, matching a facade’s paint color, or sitting less conspicuously in flower beds.
“What are the rocks being replaced by?” I asked.
“Speakers that look like mulch,” he said.
It sounds promising. But maybe I am in the end just a reactionary. For now I think it might be faster and easier to teach my dog to heed nature’s call than to ask nature to watch “Brockmire” with me.
Watching people pass by from the safety of your balcony is one of the great joys of urban life. But when people start watching you back, it’s less fun. The solution? Potted plants—and also a privacy panel. Here are 10 we like.
Recently on Remodelista, Margot took us through the guesthouse of Jacky Winter Gardens, an artists’ residence and informal showroom for the work of partner artists. The cottage has undergone a masterful redesign, and the gardens are changing, too:
Says Mueller, “I share this garden with a tribe of native friends, and have been lucky enough to meet the resident cranky old wombat. He likes to nibble on the lower limb foliage of the fruit trees.”
Says Mueller of her future plans for the garden, “My mission will remain to honor her wilderness, to plant native screens to help our native friends, with just a splash of color to complement such a pretty cottage!”
If you are a resident of the East Coast, the much-lamented loss of North America’s tallgrass prairie may be a vague concept. It is almost impossible for those of us not in on plains with distant horizons to imagine what 250 million acres of open grassland looked like. It may be even more difficult to visualize the individual plants which inhabited what was once the largest ecosystem in the United States. Unfamiliarity may explain why we still rely a great deal on imported grasses instead of turning to the vigorous, long-rooted native species of the prairie when designing our gardens. Time to change that.
Is switchgrass a good fit for your garden? Read on to learn how and where to plant Panicum virgatum:
The four dominant species in the tallgrass prairie were: little bluestem, big bluestem, Indian grass, and switchgrass. Today all are readily available, dependable, easy to grow and provide seasonal beauty. However, for adaptability and usefulness, it would be hard to beat switchgrass. In addition to the prairie, Panicum virgatum is found on dry slopes, in pine and oak woodlands, and along river banks. It is also known to thrive in heavy clay, sand, drought-plagued areas, and even in saturated soils such as brackish marshes. In other words, it will grow almost anywhere.
Cheat Sheet
Switchgrass attracts bees and butterflies and provides protective cover for songbirds, quail, pheasants, and small mammals such as rabbits and chipmunks.
Use switchgrass in meadows or native plant gardens or place it in a row for a feathery screen or hedge. Used as a specimen, switchgrass makes an excellent substitute for the non-native Miscanthus.
Prevent erosion by planting en masse on slopes and ridges.
Switchgrass flowers make attractive additions to fresh or dried arrangements.
Switchgrass is not appealing to deer.
One of the most valuable traits of Panicum virgatum as a garden plant is its nearly year-round interest. Although, as a warm-season grass it is slow to start in the spring, after it materializes it keeps embellishing the landscape with an ever-changing color show. From the first fresh appearance of its narrow green or bluish leaves to its mid-summer bloom when the delicate pinkish flowers appear on stalks about a foot above the foliage, it is a subtle but effective accent plant. Fall is the most dramatic season for switchgrass: the foliage turns bright yellow or gold (sometimes tinged with burgundy or red). In winter it fades to a pleasant beige that is considerably enhanced by a snowy landscape.
Keep It Alive
In addition to being ridiculously tolerant of different kinds of soil, switchgrass helps to restore damaged or contaminated areas (think strip mines).
Plant in full sun for the most prolific flowering, best fall color, and upright growth.
Does best in USDA zones 4 to 9.
Deep roots (as long as 9 feet) mean this plant, once established, is extraordinarily drought tolerant and does not require fertilizer.
Wait to cut back dried foliage in early spring as seeds provide nutrition for birds during the winter.
If the centers of clumps die out every few years, dig up, divide, and replant to rejuvenate.
Large plantings of switchgrass can be revitalized through controlled burns.
Panicum virgatum is a large plant, up to 8 feet high and3 feet wide, but recently developed hybrids are compact and more suited to smaller gardens. ‘Cape Breeze’ is a variety discovered on Martha’s Vineyard that is salt-tolerant, dense and erect with bright green foliage and airy yellow-green blooms. Even in flower, it tops out at 30 inches in both height and spread. Another distinctive short cultivar is ‘Shenandoah’, which is a small vase-shaped plant that turns a striking red-purple color in fall. Like ‘Cape Breeze’, this hybrid gets about 30 inches tall with a similar spread.
Other popular ornamental cultivars include the blue-leaved ‘Cloud Nine’ which can reach 8 feet when in flower and changes color to bright gold in autumn. ‘Dallas Blues’ is somewhat shorter at 6 feet but makes a good specimen plant with its vertical habit and powdery blue foliage that turns copper in the fall. ‘Prairie Fire’ sports bright red foliage in early summer, which later converts into a buttery yellow. This upright plant can reach 5 feet in height.
But switchgrass is not a plant to be strictly classified as ornamental. It has a number of agricultural and commercial uses such as pasture and hay for cattle and sheep. It can be pressed into pellets that are used as fuel and research is ongoing into its use in the manufacture of a textile fabric that could be a more environment-friendly substitute for cotton. Scientists believe that in the future switchgrass may be used to create a sustainable biofuel which would be far more energy efficient to produce than ethanol which is made from corn. So enjoy this plant as a decorative accent in your garden, but respect it as a valuable environmental workhorse.
I’ve always known in theory that if you plant spring-flowering bulbs (such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses, and alliums) you can fill your garden with successive waves of color for three months while you wait for summer. But in my garden, after the spring flowers on the azaleas and rhododendrons fade? Nothing—until June. I eye my neighbors’ more colorful gardens with envy and initiate late-night talks with my husband about why this is the year we should hire a landscape designer.
This fall I plan to be proactive and plant bulbs—which I know is a thing you do in autumn because one year I went to our local nursery and asked for alliums. I’m particularly enamored with the extraterrestrial look of alliums, with their large pompom heads and tall, slender stalks. But it was during the height of summer, and the nice lady who worked at the nursery had to break it to me that I’d have to wait until September or later for the bulbs to be available for purchase. Like many other bulbs, they are planted in the fall and bloom in the spring, she told me, with the not slightest bit of disdain.
A job requirement for working at nurseries must be an uncanny ability to refrain from rolling one’s eyes when asked idiotic questions. Thankfully, my interview with Barbara Pierson, nursery manager of White Flower Farm, in which I asked beginner questions about spring-flowering bulbs, was conducted over email. (Thank you, Barbara, for not inserting any eye-roll emojis.) Here’s what I learned:
Q: What are bulbs, anyway?
A: A bulb is “essentially a storage organ” for plants, says Barbara; all the food they need is concentrated in a compact, onion-shaped mass. “True bulbs have scales which are fleshy and become leaves after the bulb begins to grow.” They’re often lumped together with corms, rhizomes, and tubers, because they all grow underground and produce plants, but they are different. Corms don’t have scales; rhizomes grow horizontally and can produce more plants, and tubers have eyes (like potatoes) that can grow into sprouts or roots. (See Everything You Need to Know About Bulbs and Tubers for a roundup of some of our favorite springtime bulb and tuber flowers.)
Q: Which bulbs are the easiest to grow?
A. “Bulbs are a great beginning for gardeners because they don’t need special growing techniques or knowledge,” says Barbara. (This is music to my ears.) Since the nutrients are stored in the bulb, “fancy soil preparation” isn’t necessary. The hardest part may be figuring out which way to orient the bulb when you plant. For this reason, Barbara recommends big bulbs such as daffodils, tulips, and alliums: “The larger the bulb size, the more obvious the roots, which helps when determining which side is up.” Of the three, daffodils and alliums have the longest-lasting blooms, though heat and/or rain can shorten their flowers’ life span. (See Everything You Need to Know About Ornamental Alliums.)
Q: When is the best time to plant bulbs?
A: Now. But if you have plans this weekend, don’t fret. “The planting time for bulbs is a long window of time during fall,” says Barbara. “Rule of thumb for most is to have them root in for six weeks before the ground is frozen. The ground doesn’t freeze here in Connecticut until early to mid-December. In most areas, September through mid-November is prime time.”
Tip: Tulips can be damaged by warm soil, so they are planted later in warmer zones. If you’ve already bought your bulbs but the weather is still balmy, be sure to store them in a cool, dry place, like a garage, basement, or pantry. “A refrigerator is not necessary and can actually force them into early flowering once planted,” she says.
A: Choose a sunny spot. Consider adding bulb food in the hole before you plant. “It isn’t necessary but can produce larger blooms for a longer period,” says Barbara. Water your bulbs after planting. If there’s ample rain in the fall, you don’t need to water again, but if there’s a dry spell, you should water them a few more times. For more on how to properly plant bulbs, see Gardening 101: How to Plant a Bulb. And for a chart on which bulbs bloom when, go here.
Q: How many bulbs should you plant together?
A: To avoid the sad, sparse look of a lone tulip swaying in the breeze or a single row of spaced-out alliums, plant in clumps (not rows) and plant them closer than the instructions recommend, says Barbara. Her tips for specific bulbs: “For allium, you will plant them in threes. For daffodils and tulips, ten to twelve in a group is best. I like when they emerge looking like a bouquet of flowers ,and large swaths or drifts of blooms planted closely is beautiful. For daffodils and tulips, I only give them two to three inches apart. For crocus and minor bulbs such as Eranthis, plant them in groups very close together for a great show in spring.”
Squirrels make it look so easy. But digging a deep, narrow hole to plant bulbs can be a challenge.
Bulb planting tools reduce the hard work by grabbing dirt in a cone when they are pushed into the soil, creating a bulb-ready hole. The simple rule of thumb I was taught is that bulbs need to be planted in a hole about three times as deep as the bulb is wide. Simple short-handled hand bulb planters are perfect for small planting jobs. For bigger jobs or particularly stubborn soil, get off your knees and consider a foot-powered, long-handled bulb planter.
Make the job easier this fall. Here are ten of our favorite bulb planters, from modern to vintage (like the one in the top photo, via Etsy).
Hand Bulb Planters
Long-Handled Bulb Planters
If you’re adding to your collection of lifetime-quality garden tools, see more Garden Tools in our newly updated 10 Easy Pieces posts. Don’t miss:
High levels of arsenic and lead in the soil, a decrepit factory building, a courtyard roofed over with half-rotted plywood and tarpaper, a courtyard paved in concrete—we’ve all heard this Brooklyn story at least once. But surprise, there’s a happy ending for one garden on an industrial block in East Williamsburg.
When FABR Studio + Workshop partners Tom Dalmus, Bretaigne Walliser, and Eli Fernald discovered the skeleton of a 700-square-foot courtyard while remodeling a building for clients, they were able to see beyond the grit. They decided to site their company headquarters in a first-floor studio space (see the interiors today on Remodelista) and—in a genius move—to install steel factory doors to connect their office to a courtyard garden.
The problem? The plan required them to create a courtyard garden from scratch, which required a leap of faith. “We dug up the whole concrete floor—broken slabs and dirt—and removed layers of plywood and tarpaper, and rebuilt a garden wall,” said Bret. “At that point we tested the soil—and it was shockingly high with lead and heavy metal. It was essentially a brown field site.”
The solution? They remediated the dirt below the concrete with ground-up fish bones and fish meal (to render the heavy metals inert) and carted topsoil one wheelbarrow at a time to create a healthy foundation for plants. “It took a week and smelled like low tide for days, but the plants are absolutely thriving,” said Bret.
The result? Magic. Read on and see if you agree:
Photography by Matthew Williams.
In a neighborhood where rusting construction cranes and corrugated sheet metal are far more common sights than butterflies and bees, Fabr Studio created an oasis both for themselves and for the next generation of both insects and humans (Bret and Tom are partners in life as well as in work, and have two young children who have named all the fish).
The fish live year-round outdoors. “You can get a little pond warmer with a heater, to create an oxygen hole when it ices over,” said Bret. In the winter when ice on the surface of the pond is thick enough “to ice skate on,” the fish hibernate at the bottom, she said.
“In the beginning we were worried because we planted two apple trees ad then worried there were no bees because it was an industrial area,” said Bret. “But there was a bar on corner which has a flower garden on the roof—and beehives.”
The bees fly from the roof down to the Fabr Studio garden to drink water and then return to their hives. “They pollinated our apple tree and all the flowers and the tomatoes,” said Bret. “There’s a thriving little bee colony although the rest of the neighborhood is like a wasteland.”
“Oh my God, the garden is incredibly therapeutic,” said Bret. “We live about ten minutes away in a loft apartment with our two toddlers. When we were finally able to build this place and have the garden, it was a wonderful opportunity to have space for the kids to come hang out.”
Not shown: plastic inflatable pools, water guns, and the barbecue grill that appear on the weekend. “This garden goes high, it goes low,” said Bret.
“We’ve been trying to have a little bit of a biodynamic scenario,” said Bret. “We bought lady bugs to deal with the lacewings.”
Above: A wild rose (dug up from Tom’s parents’ Cape Cod garden in Wellfleet) covers the brick wall.
If you’re designing a courtyard garden from scratch (or any kind of urban attempt at nature), see our curated Garden Design 101 guides for tips. If lead, arsenic, or other contaminants are a concern, read more:
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