If you have a 20,000-square-foot Brooklyn rooftop with selfie-worthy views of the Manhattan skyline, you should plant a pollinator-friendly meadow garden up there right away. That’s what the team at digital publishing and broadcast company Vice Media decided to do four years ago—and look how well it turned out both for the butterflies and for employees who like to snap sunset photos at #vicehq:

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Above: Planted in 2015, the garden is thriving in its fourth summer. Walking down a flagstone path in Vice Media’s rooftop garden in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is an immersion in an urban meadow wonderland.

In 2014 Vice Media approached the design-build team at Brooklyn Grange Farm, which has a 43,000-square-foot-rooftop farm in nearby Long Island City, to ask for help in planting a rooftop vegetable garden at the company’s new headquarters.

Gwen Schantz, a founder and principal at Brooklyn Grange, saw the roof and knew that they could do a lot more than just a vegetable patch for the use of Munchies (Vice’s food website). “It was really a dream job,” she says.

Four years later, monarch butterflies drift across the flowers, settling briefly. Bees burrow into pollen. Luxurious, shoulder-height grasses tower above fragrant and diminutive thyme, crushed underfoot. Electric displays of echinacea and bee balm mirror the tri-state air traffic above, attracting every pollinator this side of the East River. And when you look up, 360 degrees of New York City wrap this botanical package in a big fat skyline ribbon, making it an enviable work space.

Above: The concept was to create a space for the Vice employees to relax and engage with nature, and also to contribute to local ecology with a lush meadow, said Schantz, who designed the layout and plantings.

The Vice team asked for 5,000 square feet of wooden deck, “but otherwise they gave me a lot of freedom in terms of design,” said Schantz. The deck is now divided into areas that include one perched atop a grassy mound, providing a perfect vantage point where hardworking (relaxing?) employees can enjoy the tidal rise and fall and water traffic of the East River below. Solar panels provide power for outdoor laptops and devices, and plug-in points are abundant.

Above: Schantz says that her goal in creating this garden was to make a lush field of wildflowers that would bloom from spring to fall. “We wanted it to be colorful and wild, and feature mostly native and medicinal plants.”

Above: Just eight inches of planting depth (using green roof media designed by Rooflite) supports this intensive and thriving plant community. Irrigation is used, but kept to a minimum.

Above: This summer the garden is dominated by hot-weather daises. Hardy echinacea (purple coneflower), beloved by all pollinators and also appealing to migrating birds, who feed on its late-season seed heads, is the undisputed star of the show.

Construction began in early spring of 2015, with a very tight timeline. The Brooklyn Grange team had to wait for the roofers to put in a new roof membrane before they could begin. “We were literally green-roofing and planting bit-by-bit every day while the roofers worked ahead of us to seal up the waterproofing, ” says Schantz. “It was a high-speed, high-pressure build.”

Thousands of large, established perennial grasses and flowers were brought in from Georgia and Oregon (warmer than New York at that time of year), along with a couple of thousand blooming daffodils and crocuses for instant appeal. Vice threw a big bash that April, she said, and although it was only a couple of weeks old “the Vice garden was the greenest spot in New York City that month.”

Above: The rigidly vertical echinacea are always softened by clumps of grasses (whose sculptural peak is early fall, when they bloom, and into winter) and soft white pools of Shasta daisies.

Above: Attracting bees and beneficial insects boosts local biodiversity.

A bill introduced to the New York City Council on July 18, requiring all new construction in the city to incorporate green roof systems (or solar power, or wind turbines), could breathe life into the sterile, wasted spaces atop buildings, potentially creating interconnected biomes within the concrete grid. Green roofs also lower city temperatures and harvest rainwater. And by now we all know that plants make people feel better.

Above: Against the backdrop of the Domino Sugar Refinery (whose entire complex was once the largest sugar refinery in the world) agastache, echinacea, and tickseed (coreopsis) bask in the hot summer sun.

In spring gardeners have observed birds collecting grass blades for nesting, and a couple of years ago a mallard duck laid 14 eggs (“Twelve hatched!”says Schantz) in a rooftop nest that she made here with some of the taller grasses.

Above: Resilient rudbeckia is a stand-out and long-blooming choice for full sun gardens.

Above: The vegetable garden at the northern end of the space is built in raised beds, with a planting depth of about 12 inches.

Ashley Natale, Brooklyn Grange’s garden manager, oversees its health and maintenance, and uses crop rotation to prevent disease and pests (since they will often favor a certain crop family). “The Munchies test kitchen uses the food for recipe testing and guest chefs will forage for ingredients,”she says, “so it’s less about quantity production and more about growing varieties you can’t easily find.”

Above: In the vegetable garden beds brassicas share space with sunflowers (planted in part to feed snacking migratory birds, while some studies have shown that they might be a good trap crop).

Above: Calendula is added to attract beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings, obviating the need for pesticides.

After suffering in the skewering sun the lawn beyond (planted in a mere four inches of growing media) is now heavily seeded with white clover. Natale pronounces the experiment a success: “It’s low growing, can handle foot traffic, responds well to mowing, is drought tolerant, fixes nitrogen  [making synthetic fertilizer unnecessary], and the bees love the blooms!” This refreshing approach to lawn-keeping—traditionally a realm were herbicide reigns supreme—also welcomes dandelions. “They really make our lawn look authentic in the spring,”says Natale. Dead nettle (Lamium pupureum) also has place at the party, being one of the first signs of floral life after a long winter.

Above: Despite the apparent wildness of this compelling garden, it still needs to be “intentionally maintained,” as Natale describes the actual labor of gardening. Weeds make this a challenge.

“But not all weeds are bad,” Natale says. The gardeners are conscious of the amount of material they remove and feel that many remaining weeds work aesthetically without monopolizing resources (they include Queen Anne’s lace, evening primrose, and Canadian fleabane—used in flower arrangements for the offices). A lot of time in spring is spent controlling the spread of mugwort, a weed and a herb with a long medicinal pedigree and huge culinary potential.

Above: As the late afternoon sun blazes before dipping behind Manhattan and Jersey, it is easy to imagine that perhaps no one here ever goes home. They just break out some cold drinks, flop into the chairs, recruit a head of cabbage for some slaw, and delegate which co-workers will fire up the barbecues, waiting for action.

When darkness falls, perhaps they lie back on the clover lawn, and watch the stars come out over the city that never sleeps. Within reach of a power outlet, of course. Because digital publishing never sleeps, either.

See more roof garden ideas in our curated guides to Garden Design 101, along with growing guides for more of our favorite hardy Perennials and Grasses. See more of our rooftop gardens in New York City:

• Ask the Expert: Roof Garden Basics with Designer Julie Farris
• Sustainable Farming: 10 Tips from the Brooklyn Grange
• A Manhattan Roof Garden with a Panoramic View
• Compost Dinner: A Zero-Waste Menu at Brooklyn Grange Farm

A few months ago, over on Remodelista, the editors praised the power of paint for its ability to instantly reframe an interior space without committing to a full remodel. To prove their point, architectural and interior designer Katie Hackworth weighed in with three no-fail color palettes for a room’s ceiling, walls, and trim (see her picks here). It got us thinking: Could a fresh coat of paint provide an instant curb appeal upgrade as well? We went back to Katie to ask her advice and she responded right away with a resounding “yes!” and a few of her favorite exterior color combinations for your facade, exterior trim, and front door.

Photography by Mel Walbridge for Gardenista. Produced and styled by Oliver Agger.

Above: Curb appeal color palettes for any style of architecture. From left: a classic white, a dramatic palette hinged on navy, and a muted green palette that still reads neutral.

Classic White

Above: For a mostly white palette that would work for a traditional or modern home, Katie chose Behr’s Ivory Palace in a flat finish for the main house color, accented by the same tone in satin for the exterior trim. Behr’s Black in semi-gloss is a classic front door choice to accent a warm white exterior.

For a classic, can’t-go-wrong white palette, Katie leans toward whites that have some warmth, without reading yellow or pink. “Lately I’ve been gravitating toward painting the main house and the trim the same color but with different sheens,” she says. “Whether your home is traditionally detailed or more pared down, it’s a timeless way to modernize the overall look.”

Above: Black is a no-brainer when it comes to front door color on a warm white home. “You can’t go wrong,” says Katie. Shown, from top: front door, exterior trim, and main house.

Dark & Moody

Above: A stately navy palette includes Behr’s Undersea in flat finish for the main house color, the same tone in its satin finish for the trim, and Behr’s Exclusive Ivory in satin for a fresh front door.

For a dose of drama that still reads classic, Katie designed a palette anchored by a navy blue main house color. “Navy just might be my all-time favorite color,” she says. “These days, I’m seeing it more and more frequently on the exteriors of homes.”

Above: “For a fresh and welcoming approach, a soft white painted door will always make an agreeable pairing,” Katie says. Shown, from top: main house, exterior trim, and front door.

Going Green

Above: “If anyone knows my work, they know I have a thing for green,” says Katie. For a green palette that leans toward neutral, she chose Behr’s Jungle Camouflage in a flat finish for the main house color, Behr’s High Style Beige in semi-gloss for the exterior trim, and Behr’s Broadway in satin for the front door.

For a nonwhite palette, Katie chose a muted gray-green (the new neutral, if you ask us), accented by a putty tone for the exterior trim. “Putty is the cool, classic term for beige in my book,” Katie admits. “It sounds so much better, don’t you think?”

Above: “I chose a classic black with green undertones for the front door. It’s understated green at its best!” Shown, from top: main house, exterior trim, and front door.

Katie’s no-fail palettes are all fairly neutral—classic combinations that don’t call attention to themselves. If you’re up for making a statement, stay tuned in the next few weeks for her favorite bold front-door colors.

Making elegance look effortless, actress and script writer Diane Valsonne transformed a narrow Parisian balcony into a chic garden. When we dropped in on her in the 10th arrondisement the other day, she shared 10 ideas to steal to add charm to any small urban garden:

Photography by Mimi Giboin for Gardenista.

French Doors

Above: Pairs of French doors swing open to connect the flat’s living room to the balcony garden.

Bring a balcony garden indoors with double doors (or floor-to-ceiling windows). A pair of side-by-side doors hinged on the outer edge of the doorway’s frame are French doors, often used to enter an outdoor balcony, patio, or garden.

Iron Railings

Above: From a wrought iron railing hang balcony planters filled with herbs and flowers.

European iron makers have been creating beautifully ornate railings to adorn facades in France and Spain for centuries. Painted black, a lacy iron railing is a classic backdrop for plants and outdoor furniture.

Every Inch Matters

Above: Many of Valsonne’s favorite plants come from Bleuet Coquelicot, a neighborhood shop where flowers of all colors spilling out from the tiny storefront onto the sidewalk. See more of it in Shopper’s Diary: Bleuet Coquelicot in Paris.

You can create a layered look by thinking of a balcony as a space with three separate zones for plants: a facade (where trained vines can grow up the wall), a floor (where potted plants can cluster), and a railing (for window boxes full of herbs and sun-loving flowers).

Railing Planters

Above: Along the balcony railing, Valsonne hangs planters full of herbs and flowers. For similar planters, see 10 Easy Pieces: Black Balcony Box Planters.

Plant a mix of herbs and flowers in railing planters so you always have something to snip for dinner or for a vase.  As the season progresses, replenish and replace plants as necessary.

Mix-and-Match Containers

Above: Valsonne’s eclectic collection of pots and railing planters is unified visually because they are all made of clay.

Don’t be afraid to experiment with a wide range of plants. Figs, fennel, tomatoes, herbs, cutting flowers, and wisteria are some of the plants Valsonne grows. She mixes edibles and ornamentals in a single pot and encourages vines to grow just wild enough to lend the balcony an untamed, bohemian air.

Frame the View

Above: Bushes of cherry tomatoes grow against the facade of the building.

Valsonne allows wisteria tendrils to curl around door frames and windows to frame the picturesque neighborhood views.

Above: Valsonne tends her garden daily, snipping and pruning as necessary to keep plants in check.

Support System

Above: Wisteria vines grow up metal pipes, giving the plants a support system and preventing damage to the building’s facade.

Vines and climbers can get heavy as they mature (especially if stems become woody). Dense foliage adds to the weight. Install a sturdy trellis, arbor, or pergola and train vines to grow on it.

Drought Tolerant Plants

Above: Potted olive trees (at L) send up new growth.

A balcony garden’s pots and planters will dry out fast, particularly if they get several hours a day of full sun. Water plants once a day (or better yet, install a mini drip irrigation system to manage the chore for you) and choose plants that can withstand a little neglect. Olive trees, citrus trees, and other plants that hail from dry, Mediterranean climates are good choices, as are succulents and cacti.

Color Coordination

Above: Complementing the green colors and textures on the balcony, Gaillardia pulchella (blanket flower) adds a punch of bright color. A packet of 100 Blanket Flower seeds is .99 from Nature’s Finest Seed.

Air Circulation

Above: Valsonne’s open-air living room.

Throw open windows and doors to invite cool breezes (and scents from herbs and flowers) to come indoors.

See more balcony garden ideas in Garden Design 101 guides, including ideas for Decks and Railings. We’ve borrowed plenty of other garden ideas from Paris, as well. See more:

• On the Street: 10 Garden Ideas to Steal from Paris
• Secret Paris: A Tiny Roof Garden with an Eiffel Tower View

The winner of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards Best Curb Appeal project is Urban Oasis Landscape Design for their Vibrant Mediterranean Front Yard landscape in Los Angeles.

The project was chosen as a finalist by guest judge Brook Klausing, who compared it to “the last day of school before summer break: There is a feeling of abandonment with something special waiting for you on the other side.”

N.B.: This is the first of six posts spotlighting the winners of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards. Go to this year’s Considered Design Awards page to see all the entries, finalists, and winners, and to have a look at the Remodelista Considered Design Awards.

Above: “We wanted to update the front yard to reflect the clients’ creative personalities and the beautiful style of their classic Spanish bungalow. A petite cinquefoil planter with radiating pavers creates a focal point.” Photograph by Mike Boden.

Urban Oasis’s Design Statement: “We created a classic Mediterranean courtyard by using a Moorish quatrefoil planter with a grid of precast concrete pavers as the anchor to the space. Plants at the sidewalk create a feeling of enclosure while keeping the garden open to neighbors. Color and texture are carefully balanced with decomposed granite.”

Above: “We sought to create an exuberant garden filled to the brim with flowers and textures that they could enjoy and share with the community. This front yard is living proof that you don’t have to sacrifice to create a low-water garden.”

Gardenista: What does your firm specialize in?
Urban Oasis: We specialize in creating sustainable residential landscapes using the watershed method. In a balanced watershed, rainwater passes through plants and healthy living soil before moving into our local waterways or going back into the sky to form clouds. With the proper practices, every garden will function as a mini-watershed: sequestering atmospheric carbon, preventing water and air pollution, restoring the water and life of the soil, and attracting essential life into the garden—keeping our Earth green and water abundant.

Above: “The design blends an organic planting style with classic Moorish symmetry. Two large distressed ceramic containers containing kumquat trees flank the stately plate glass window, while Pride of Madeira adds drama to the area.”

G: What were your practical goals for the project?
UO: We wanted to update the front yard to reflect my clients’ creative personalities and the beautiful style of their classic Spanish bungalow. They also wanted to lower their carbon footprint and water bill by switching their irrigation to a drip system and using California climate-friendly plants. We wanted to craft a sense of entry and enclosure while maintaining a degree of openness to the neighbors, creating an exuberant garden that they could enjoy and share with the community.

Above: “A low informal hedge of germander creates a sense of enclosure to their garden while keeping it open to neighbors and passers-by.”

G: What solutions did you find to your design problems?
UO: We removed the lawn and replaced it with low-water, climate-appropriate Mediterranean and California native plants. Taking our cue from the architecture of their house, we tried to create the feel of a classic Mediterranean courtyard using a classic Moorish quatrefoil planter as the focal point of the space with a grid of precast concrete pavers radiating outward. The budget was very tight, but we found a company that creates concrete fountains quite inexpensively and used a fountain base for the quatrefoil. The pavers are also a budget item, but together these two elements have quite an impact. We put an informal low hedge of germander at the outer edges and anchored the two front corners with small trees (crape myrtle ‘Tuscarora’ and Caribbean copper plant). Color and texture are carefully balanced with the plant choices while the decomposed granite floor keeps it from being chaotic. Two large distressed ceramic containers containing kumquat trees flank the stately arched plate glass window.

Above: “The surface is decomposed granite with Dymondia margaretae ground cover creeping between the pavers. Using a permeable ground surface is good for your garden and for the environment as it allows rainwater to infiltrate into the water table instead of out into the street.”

G: What are your favorite features of the project?
UO: We love the way the plants all work together to create such a lively garden. It’s the gift that keeps on giving with a profusion of flowers for much of the year. It’s also very gratifying that the clients have had so much positive feedback from the neighborhood.

Above: “The crape myrtle tree puts on a show in the fall and anchors this corner of the yard.”

Q: What advice do you have for someone else undertaking a similar project?
A: Don’t be afraid of color, but make sure that you have a planned color palette. This garden uses a lot of purples and oranges, which are complementary colors (opposite each other on the color wheel). Another thing to keep in mind is including a variety of foliage textures to balance everything out. For example, you wouldn’t want all the plants to have strappy leaves. It’s nice to balance differently sized and textured foliage. You also want to create a rhythm with plant sizes to keep drawing the eye around the space. Last but not least, leave some negative space so the eye has a place to rest. We always like to leave areas with either low-growing plants or some inorganic surfaces.

Q: What was your biggest splurge?
A: The two large urns were the most expensive items in the project, but they were worth it. They make the project look luxurious.

Above: “Caribbean copper plant’s plum-colored leaves contrast with the bright and vibrant plants around it. The design creates a sense of entry and enclosure while maintaining a degree of openness to the neighbors.”

Q: Where do you get your design inspiration?
A: We love going on garden tours. When we can’t physically go to a garden, we do a lot of reading, go to lectures, and look at projects online to see how people solve various design dilemmas.

Q: Which garden designers, gardeners, or landscape architects do you admire?
A: Well, Piet Oudolf of course. Everyone loves him. More locally though, we like Margie Grace, Mia Lehrer, Nancy Goslee Power, Campion Walker Landscapes—there are so many talented people out there.

As a garden designer who also loves making homemade gifts, I often propagate my houseplants. Giving away or swapping the plant babies is a rewarding project—and if you take up the same hobby, you can give yourself  a pat on the back for practicing environmentalism and frugality.

Depending on the plant, you’ll use one of several propagation methods—from rooting a leaf to taking a stem cutting to coaxing new roots to grow in water. Whatever method you choose, multiplying your houseplants will yield satisfying results (and thoughtful gifts for anyone in need of a little more indoor green love).

Please keep reading to learn more about the ways to propagate houseplants:

Leaf Cuttings

Above: A snake plant (Sansevieria) sprouts offshoots. Photograph by Mimi Giboin. For more, see Dressed to Kill: 7 Haunted Houseplants for Halloween.

Some houseplants you can make more of by cutting off a leaf section. Snake plant is a great choice for this technique.

How to do it: Cut a leaf into sections and note with angled cuts which end is the bottom. Next dip the bottom end in rooting powder, place in moist potting soil, and patiently wait.

Rhizome Division

Above: ZZ plants (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) can be divided by teasing apart a plant’s stems to separate its rhizomes. See more at Everything You Need to Know About ZZ Plants. Photograph by Mokkie via Wikimedia.

This method works for multi-stemmed houseplants.

How to do it: Remove the plant from its container. Then use both hands to gingerly play tug of war to encourage the plant to come apart. Use a knife to cut the plant in half if the first method fails. (Sometimes plants will naturally divide with gentle tugging. )

Make sure in each division to maintain some roots, stems, and leaves. Pot in moist potting soil, place in indirect light, and provide even moisture to the recovering plants. Check in about two weeks to see how they are doing.

Tuber Division

Above: Begonias under propagation at White Flower Farm. See growing tips for begonias in Gardening 101: Hardy Begonia. Photograph by Sara Barrett.

This method works for plants like tuberous begonia or caladium because they produce bulbous-like underground tubers.

How to do it: Slice the tubers into multiple sections, ensuring each section has an eye, and then plant right away and keep the soil moist.

Stem Cuttings

Above: Succulent starts at a recent plant swap organized by horticulturalist Sarah Scott of Botanic Creative in Victoria, Canada. See more in Plant Swaps: The New Sharing Economy.

This process works for most multi-stemmed houseplants.

How to do it: Cut off a few inches (from three to five inches) from a top or a side branch, just below where the leaf meets the stem (this spot is called a node). Next, carefully pull off the lower leaves and dust the cut end in rooting hormone. Now take a pencil and make a hole in the potting soil where you will plant your cutting so as to not inadvertently remove any of the hormone powder, and finally place the stem in your new hole. If your stem seems weak in the knees, prop it up with small rocks or angled chopsticks. Provide indirect light and keep moist.

You know your cutting has rooted when you gently tug on the stem and you find resistance. Now you can carefully dig up your start and replant.

Water Propagation

Above: Photograph by John Merkl.

Another similar method is to place your cuttings in a glass of water.

How to do it: Place a cutting in a jar of cool water and wait until white roots start presenting themselves. When the roots get to be about 1/2-inch long, remove from the water and plant in potting soil. If you wait too long, the roots will not acclimate to soil because they will have come to believe they are water plants.

What are some of the easiest houseplants to propagate?

Above: Ready to plant, lithops with healthy root structures. See more in Gardening 101: Lithops. Photograph by Yellowcloud via Flickr.

I will not lie and say I have attempted propagation of every houseplant. In fact, my main success stories involve the characters spider plant, jade plant, pothos, and mother in law’s tongue. But in general, the best indoor plants to try to propagate (including those I mentioned) are generally hardy and quick growing: consider coleus, begonia, scented geranium, Swedish ivy, and African violet.

What are the most difficult houseplants to propagate?

Above: Horticulturalist Sarah Scott of Botanic Creative (@botanic.creative.co) hosts workshops for houseplant lovers. For more information, see Botanic Creative.

Unfortunately, despite generous pampering (and plant prayers), some indoor plants are difficult to clone. Not surprisingly, variegated selections can be challenging because variegation is a mutation which can vary in stability, meaning the plant could potentially revert to solid green.

Above: Pothos ‘Marble Queen’ has white variegation and is slower growing than other varieties. It looks excellent in a white pot. See more at Pothos: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design. Photograph by Mimi Giboin.

Other factors that may make it difficult to propagate: a  sickly plant will obviously provide less than favorable results, as will a plant notorious for fickleness (such as Calathea ornata, which is super sensitive to temperature fluctuations).

Do I need any special equipment?

Above: Photograph courtesy of Needles and Leaves. For more, see DIY: How to Root Succulents.

Unless propagation is your full-time job (and therefore you’re talking about supplies such as thermometers, grow lights and greenhouses), there are only a handful of required materials needed: quality potting soil, a sharp, clean knife or pair of clippers, small starter pots, and rooting hormone you can find at most garden centers.

Above: An aloe offshoot, ready to repot. See more at Aloe 101: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design. Photograph by Justine Hand.

How long does it take for new roots to form?

Above: See more at How to Care for Aloe Vera, the Plant of Immortality. Photograph by Justine Hand.

Every plant’s growth rate varies as do the variables involved in propagating, such as the humidity level  and temperature in your house, the amount of moisture you give the plant, and the health of the “mother plant.” Plus, a bit of luck always affects the outcome in the world of gardening. With that said, however, expect to see some action anywhere from one to two weeks.

See more growing tips in our curated Garden Design guides for Succulents, Houseplants, and Vines & Climbers.

The Remodelista editors discovered this week that style doesn’t take a vacation in August. See five of their favorite interior design ideas to steal:

Twin Doorways

Above: Julie heads to London for a look around a “monastic oasis with courtyard garden by Takero Shimazaki Architects.”

See more takeaways in this week’s Architect Visit in  Wabi Sabi in London: A Modest Yet Monumental House by Takero Shimazaki.

Little Black Pendant Lights

Above: A Flos String Lights Cone, designed by Michael Anastassiades; $695 for the single shade at Flos.

Broom as Art

Above: From Custodian Studio, brooms can be “functional art pieces, made from all natural materials,” writes Julie. Handmade “slipcovers” made of linen, cotton, and a wool cashmere blend that snugly over the handle, adding a  tactile layer of luxury.

See more in Object of Desire: Handmade Luxe Brooms from a Brooklyn Artist.

Retro-Style Kitchen Ranges

Above: Italian company Ilve makes retro-style ranges with different options for color, finish, and grill tops. The Majestic Range prices start at $4,999 at AJ Madison.

Communal Sinks

Above: A communal sink makes sense at camp (and in outdoor kitchens)—and so does a strategically positioned mirror, to take advantage of the views. Photograph by Victor Schrager, courtesy of Aesthetic Movement.

Margot packed her bags and headed to the Catskills for a tour of Camp Here Here, a Retreat for Stylish Stoners (and the Rest of Us Too).

The summer isn’t over yet: there’s plenty of time for daytrips, quick jaunts, and weekend getaways. This and more, on our radar:

Above: Where we’d like to be. See more of the Catskills’ most rustic, relaxing new opening at The Woodhouse Lodge: Designer Megan Pflug’s Catskills Motor Lodge Makeover.

• A reason to stay up late tonight.
• And: we’re fans of the Dark Sky movement.
• On the waterfront: Chicagoans are reveling in the resurrection of their river.
• Is your fairy house up to code?
• Your lawn is costing you $969 a year.
• Hunting the world’s rarest trees.
• Beetlemania (and how to cure it).
• What to binge-watch this weekend: Summer Rayne Oakes’ Plant One on Me YouTube series, featuring a behind-the-scenes look at an orchid factory outside Rotterdam and more.
• World’s most pleasing fridge organization, summer produce edition.

Above: In the New York area? Catch us on Sunday, August 12 at 3 p.m. at new curated trade show Shoppe Object: Julie and Margot will be on hand to sign all three of our books. See you there!

In the UK? Two English plant swaps going on this weekend:

• Today in Oxford, UK.
• Tomorrow in Bristol, UK.
• Plus, get your tickets now for Glasswing’s Greenhouse Plant Swap in Seattle on August 25. (The first 25 people to RSVP will get a tiny tillandsia.)

Recently in Obsessions:

• Current Obsessions: The Far Reaches
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• Current Obsessions: Jet-Setter

Fuchsia, Fuchsia: “Lady’s Eardrops”

Two years ago when I traveled to the west coast of Ireland in August, I expected to see plenty of velvet- green vistas.  What I didn’t anticipate on the Emerald Isle was that the color of the landscape would not be limited to shades of green.  Instead it was a riot of hues, due to the pervasive presence of wild flowers crowded together on roadsides and growing in broad swaths in the fields.

There was the radiant yellow of gorse and St. John’s wort, the bright purple of vetch and marsh woundwort and loosestrife.  There was also pink bramble and white meadowsweet, among many others. But one plant in particular caught my eye from the window of our fast moving car.  It was a large shrub ,and was covered in small bright red flowers.  Imagine my surprise when I had the chance to examine it at close range and discovered that it was fuchsia.

Whatever your garden needs, there is bound to be a fuchsia that is right for you.  The genus has approximately 100 species which have been developed into more than 8000 cultivars and hybrids. Fuchsias exist primarily either as upright shrubs or as trailing plants that spill out of window boxes and other containers, but they can also be pruned into alternate forms such as standards.

Fuchsias can have a reputation for being fussy and somewhat difficult to grow.  However, their requirements are really not that unreasonable and, if you tend them properly, they will reward you with spectacular summer-long flower displays which can attract pollinators such as bees and even hummingbirds.

Read on to learn more:

Above: A bright red Fuchsia magellanica bush in bloom in the Irish countryside, pig included. Photograph by Dr. Mary Gillham Archives via Flickr.

Before seeing it in Ireland, I had always thought of fuchsia as a small, quite delicate annual.  My only previous experience with it had been limited to the untimely demise of a hanging basket.  I had been trying to coax this fuchsia into bloom on a seventh floor windowsill when it tumbled out, effectively committing suicide on the unforgiving concrete sidewalk below (which fortunately was unpopulated at the time).

Above: Fuchsia thymifolia has delicate, lacy foliage, and teardrop flowers.  See more in Fuchsias: Rethinking Grandma’s Flowers. Photograph by Mimi Giboin.

The fuchsias of Ireland didn’t appear to need any coaxing.  They were robust and thriving, forming hedges along antique stone walls and flourishing as bold specimens claiming their territory in idle pastures.

Above: Fuchsia magellanica ‘Riccartonii’ grows wild in Chile as well as in Ireland. Photograph by Dan Lundberg via Flickr.

A look in A Beginner’s Guide to Ireland’s Wild Flowers identified this plant as Fuchsia magellanica and further research labeled it as ‘Riccartonii’, a hardy species commonly known as the “Humming Bird Fuchsia” or “Lady’s Eardrops.”  It is actually a native of Chile and Argentina that arrived in England in the 1700s and became a popular garden plant there in the 1800s.  It is thought that fuchsia may have escaped from cultivation and began to appear as a “volunteer” in the Irish countryside, where it proliferated in the hospitable cool, moist climate.  It is so common there today that some people have even suggested it should replace the shamrock as Ireland’s national flower.

Above: Fuchsia in bloom in Inverness Botanic Gardens in Scotland. Photograph by Tatters via Flickr.

Here in the U.S., fuchsias are common garden plants, particularly useful for adding a zing of color to shaded areas.  The ones most often sold at garden centers are tropical fuchsias (USDA zones 8 to 10) and are frequently grown as annuals although they can survive cold winters if brought inside and allowed to go dormant or grown in a cool, bright spot as houseplants.

Above: Fuchsia magellanica rightfully earns its “earrings” nickname. Photograph by Forest and Kim Starr via Flickr.

Less well known are the hardy fuchias (USDA zones 5 to 7) like the ones I saw in Ireland. They are substantial bushes which, with the right care, can be grown year round outside in northern climates.

Above: Photograph by Akshay9891 via Wikimedia.

The complicated two-toned blooms (think chandelier-style earrings) usually appear as pendulous, terminal clusters that will bounce around in a breeze and can turn a shady garden nook into a jewel box of vivid color.  Read on for tips on how to get these beauties to perform for you.

Cheat Sheet

• Use fuchsias alone in containers or combine them with other shade-tolerant plants such as oxalis, begonias, lobelia, coleus, or hardy geraniums.
• Vigilant deadheading will keep your plant in flower.
• Fuchsias bloom on new wood so aggressively pruning hardy varieties in spring will encourage vigorous flowering.
• Because fuchsias are heavy feeders, many experts suggest a monthly dose of natural liquid fertilizer such as fish emulsion or compost tea, especially for container plants.

Keep It Alive

• Fuchsias prefer rich, slightly acid, moist but well-drained soil.
• These plants are easily burned by bright sun so plant fuchsias in shade or in a spot that gets morning sun and afternoon shade.
• Do not plant fuchsias in full sun unless you are gardening in a cool, moist climate such as the Pacific Northwest.
• Fuchsias, even the tropical varieties, are not heat lovers and do best in temperatures ranging from 55 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
• Fuchsias cannot survive parched soil, especially when grown in containers. Water frequently, especially in hot, dry weather.

If you decide to grow hardy fuchsias in a cold weather climate, your plants will benefit from a generous layer of organic mulch in winter and, because they tend to appear late in the spring, it is recommended that you leave the previous year’s growth in place until the new spring shoots appear.  The old woody stems will offer some winter protection to the plant and will also serve as a reminder of your plant’s location while it is dormant.

See more growing tips in Fuchsias: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design in our curated Garden Design 101 guides. Read more about our favorite container plant combinations:

• Container Gardening: 12 Shade-Loving Plants in My Backyard
• Container Gardening: Sarah Raven’s 7 Tips for Perfect Flower Pots
• How to Garden Like a Frenchwoman: 10 Ideas to Steal from a Paris Balcony

The winner of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards Best Amateur Garden is Kielian DeWitt for her project Floral Serendipity in the Bitterroot Valley of Montana.

The project was chosen as a finalist by guest judge Erica Tanov, who had this to say: “I love the cacophony of color and interesting choice of flowers with varying height levels in this lush garden—especially the white snakeroot towering above the hollyhock and echinacea.”

N.B.: This is the second of six posts spotlighting the winners of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards. Go to this year’s Considered Design Awards page to see all the entries, finalists, and winners, and to have a look at the Remodelista Considered Design Awards.

Above: “Delphiniums, variegated dogwood, Colorado blue spruce, ‘Busy Bee’ lilies, ‘Scarlet O’Hara’ peony, and anemones awaiting their turn to bloom fill in the foreground.”

Kielian DeWitt’s Design Statement: “Established in a valley between the Bitterroot and Sapphire mountain ranges, this high-altitude garden entertains us with its evolving and often unusual combinations of blooms composed of nature’s brilliant palette. The 10-year-old gardens boast a colorful English garden design theme.”

Above: “Blue cabbage, ‘Constellation,’ ‘Night Sky’ petunias, and purple bacopa fill an old hod carrier’s wheelbarrow. The terraced moss-covered stones rein in the hillside.”

Gardenista: Where do you live?
Kielian DeWitt: I live in a narrow valley between the Bitterroot and Sapphire mountain ranges in western central Montana. Our home sits on a beautiful 66-acre ranch along a three-quarter-mile stretch of Skalkaho Creek. The house design was inspired by a trip to Argentina; there we saw Patagonian rustic stone and log houses that seemed perfect for the base of our two rugged mountain ranges. The finished home appears to have been here since frontier days—chinked log walls mix with native Montana rock and batten board. Massive fir timbers and arched fir braces adorn the exterior and interior, and rusted Cor-ten roofing covers passageways and overhangs.

The expansive gardens cover two acres and are designed for four-season color. The gardens sit within native cottonwood and aspen forests, which have been supplemented by approximately 150 blue and green spruce trees, Lodgepole, Austrian, Scotch, Ponderosa, and Bosnian pine trees, and cedar and tamarack trees. A small orchard with plum, pear, cherry, apple, and peach trees sits at the southern edge. A quarter-acre vegetable garden is situated near a large pond stocked with colorful rainbow trout.

Above: “A stone step path is hidden by voluminous plantings and leads down to Skalkaho creek just beyond the Colorado blue spruce. ‘Jupiter’s Beard,’ dianthus, and foxglove look down from the hilltop.”

GD: What were your practical goals for the project?
KD: My goals were a little less practical than my husband’s. I envisioned a vast garden covering several acres, but common sense (my husband) prevailed and we downsized the extensive plan. I wanted to limit weeding as much as possible, so I covered every bit of ground with flowers, ground cover, and shrubs. This resulted in the cacophony of color I wanted. However, despite all my planning, Mother Nature ultimately decides which plant ought to grow where. Spontaneous reseeding, nature’s hybridized cultivars, the appearance of native species, and seed-dropping birds all altered the intended design. But, as I’ve learned, Mother Nature and I together can make the most beautiful “Serendipity Gardens.”

Above: “The backlighting on a side garden containing echinacea, tall phlox, and bee balm is enchanting.”

GD: What solutions did you find to your design problems?
KD: Once house building was completed, we had to manage steep and varied ground level. We began hardscaping with mortared and stacked stone terraces, flagstone patios, stone pathways, and retaining walls. Delightfully, some areas became sunken gardens crazed with meandering pathways. Management of bothersome spring and summer runoff near the house required the design of a seasonal creek bed with a wood-and-stone bridge. This practical requirement is now one of the most charming locations in the landscape as Mother Nature adorned either side with pink and rose yarrow, columbine, alyssum, and reseeding veronica.

Above: “Yellow coreopsis partners well with stunningly blue veronica.”

GD: What are your favorite features of the project?
KD: The decks in the front and back of the house are lovely. The shady front porch offers 270-degree views of the gardens: the bridge and horse barn to the north, the Sapphire mountains to the east, and the greenhouse with adjacent sunken garden and creek to the south. The back deck opens to a view of the Bitterroot mountain range, 25-foot towering maple trees, blue spruce trees, and the pond complete with its waterfall and small stone pump house.

Above: “A better view of the stone pathway with woolly thyme hugging the perimeter of each step. ‘Tiger Eyes’ sumac stands high in the background. “

GD: What were the hardest lessons you learned along the way?
KD: Although now it seems like the most obvious thing to avoid, I planted three aspen trees on either side of the front walkway. They are beautiful in the spring when their rounded leaves flutter in the wind and they are dreamy in autumn covered in brilliant gold, but they produce baby trees everywhere their root system wanders. I am constantly cutting “shooters.” These aspens will slowly be removed as adjacent trees mature.

Another lesson I learned the hard way was the limitations of weed cloth. It is a fine option for a stagnant landscape where only shrubs and mulch are used. However, in a constantly evolving garden where additional plants and annuals may be needed or shrubs expand or reseeded areas grow unwieldly, the cursed weed cloth must painfully and slowly be pulled, cut, and eventually tossed.

Above: “White snakeroot towers above hollyhocks, echinacea, and iris.”

GD: Where did you cut corners?
KD: Particularly at the very beginning when our landscape budget was tempered by the shock of building costs. I bought sale plants, accepted any and all donated plants from friends, and dug up native plants from elsewhere on the ranch. It took a few years before specific cultivars and designated plantings were incorporated. However, serendipitously, necessity also contributed to the resulting English garden style.

Above: “A falling rock wall is supported by batten board siding on a shed that houses necessary gardening tools and implements. The ancient enameled pot is filled with turtleheads, yellow zinnias, and golden creeping jenny. “

GD: What projects would you tackle if you had an unlimited budget?
KD: The three-quarter-acre pond west of the house is surrounded by grasses on the north side. My dream is to create a Piet Oudolf–inspired meadow garden with swaths of native shrubs, drought-tolerant plantings, and reseeding annuals interspersing the tall native grasses. A stacked stone wall outlining the far reaches of the Odoulf meadow—also visible from the back deck—would create the feeling of enclosure yet still allow wildlife to wander freely to the water. I would love to build a similar wall to encircle the front gardens, orchards, and grass area adjacent to the house entrance and greenhouse. My last major project would be to create a tree allée in the meadow connecting the house to the horse barn.

Above: “An antique metal chair offers seating for the gardener who rarely gets to sit! A ‘Quaking Aspen’ and ornamental pear tree offer shade for the petite ‘Orange Dream’ Japanese maple.”

GD: What is your day job?
KD: I am retired now but worked as an environmental scientist for the National Renewable Energy Lab. I spend my days gardening, traveling, cooking, and raising gaited Morgan horses.

Above: “Seating for four is situated 75 feet from Skalkaho Creek, where the pleasant sound of creek water running its course can be heard. A climbing rose and ‘Niobi’ clematis clamber over a trellis in the background and rainwater is captured in an oak wine barrel on the side.”

GD: Which garden designers, gardeners, or landscape architects do you admire?
KD: Obviously Piet Oudolf, the Dutch ‘natural garden’ designer who challenged gardening convention, is an inspiration: “Everyone in life tries to control things all the time, but when you get older you know that you can’t, so you try to find a way to control less, and that’s what I do in gardens.” As I too age, I find I am increasingly embracing his concept of “controlled garden chaos.”

Beatrix Potter, the famous creator of Peter Rabbit, designed a romantically whimsical cottage-style garden. She acquired plants wherever she could, “shamelessly taking them from other people’s gardens.” She very well may have been the  first “seed guerilla.”

Gertrude Jekyll, the prolific British horticulturalist, designed a beautiful and inspirational wild garden at Upton Grey manor. Her apple orchard with spring bulbs planted at the base is ethereal and her relentless cataloging of acquired plants, enviable.

See more of the winners in our 2018 Considered Design Awards, including:

• Best Outdoor Living Space 2018
• Best Hardscape 2018
• Best Edible Garden 2018

Gaura, G. lindheimeri: “Dancing Ballerinas”

Thank goodness that gaura, a once-obscure Texas roadside wildflower, was “discovered” in the 1980s and became widely bred for the garden. These days I routinely add perennial gaura, which also goes by the name beeblossom, to garden designs if I want to create a sense of movement and informality.

Please keep reading to learn more about this whirling beauty.

Above: Gaura lindheimeri mingling with Nepeta sibirica. Photograph by Kendra Wilson.

What I love about this clump-forming perennial is that gaura is a plant contradiction. When gaura is in glorious full bloom, its slender stems are topped with demure ballerina-like flowers that dance to the slightest breeze. A gardener might deduce it is therefore a delicate, fussy prima donna. But on the contrary, gaura is remarkably low maintenance and withstands tough elements such as deer, wind, and heat.

Above: Photograph by Patrick Standish via Flickr.

Because I am fascinated by the origin of names, I find it interesting that the genus name comes from the Greek word “gauros,” meaning superb. Obviously this refers to the extraordinarily charming flowers. While I must admit that gaura can look disheveled at times, I plan for this period by making sure its plant neighbors are supportive and can tolerate being leaned on by the swirling flowers. A quick trim and corralling of gaura’s wayward stems, and it is back to being superb.

Above: Photograph by Tracey Adams via Flickr.

Among my favorites: ‘Whirling Butterflies’, with arching stems topped with pink flower buds that open to white flowers. This variety is compact and floriferous. Another of my favorites is ‘Siskiyou Pink’, with rose pink flowers on its notably wispy stems.

Above: Photograph by Jim Powell. For more of this garden, see In the Garden with Philippa: Brit Style with a Black Backdrop.

Cheat Sheet

• Combine gaura with other low-water perennials such as coneflower, ornamental grasses, and yarrow in a wildflower garden. Gaura also moves and sways sweetly, so consider adding it to coastal gardens where the wind is appreciated.
• Gaura grows to about three feet tall and wide when in bloom.
• It blooms from late spring well into fall, with flower colors ranging from white to shades of pink.
• Butterflies and bees are frequent visitors for the nectar.

Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

Keep It Alive

• Gaura needs full sun and plenty of room to spread its arms.
• It thrives in well-draining, sandy soil and doesn’t require much fertilizer; too much rich soil actually makes gaura floppy.
• Cut back the spent stems by half after the first bloom to encourage new tidy growth and repeat flowers.
• Gaura does not always overwinter reliably, so in colder regions consider it an annual.

For more growing tips, see Gaura: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design in our curated Garden Design 101 guides. See more design ideas for perennials:

• Perennials 101: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design
• It’s High Season in Grace Kennedy’s Garden
• Can This Garden Be Saved? My Garden Collapses at the End of Summer

When the owners of a working farm just outside of Boston wanted to build a new residence, they could think of no better location than a wooded hillside overlooking their own fields.

The owners turned to landscape architects Richard Burck Associates and landscape construction company Robert Hanss Inc., who devised a plan to turn the steep slope into a buildable lot: a series of terraces supported by fieldstone retaining walls. Through the use of traditional materials and informal plantings, Burck and Hanss, together with the architectural team of Albert, Righter & Tittman, were able to create a fully integrated, rural landscape that though modern, looks like it’s always been there.

Photography by Justine Hand.

Above: A lawn ramp, built with the type of large fieldstones typically used in farms, connects the entry level of the house to the upper outdoor living areas, where another retaining wall frames views of working farm fields. Mature trees were preserved whenever possible to help site the new construction and landscape within its setting. Visible in the distance is one of the largest pines found on the property, which was preserved and pruned.

Robert Hanss noted, “Key to the success of the project was the careful selection of masonry materials so that everything supported the agrarian character of the site. For example, the granite steps are a salvaged material with split tops and hand-tooled risers. We fit them into the existing slopes and avoided crisp edges and perfectly tight joints. We used large, chunky stones within the fieldstone walls and purposely used a looser hand in fitting the stones together, left drill marks from splitting stones in half, and used hand chisels to shape and fit stones, trying to maintain any weathered faces. We wanted it to feel as if the walls had always been there, something constructed a hundred years ago or more.”

Above: Planted along the fieldstone walls, grasses create a sense of movement and enhance the agrarian feel of the site.

Above: Bordered by the fieldstone ramp and lined with salvaged cobblestones, the generous entry court includes a basketball court, and doubles as a play area for children.

Above: In the early summer, tall purple lupines emerge from the flowing grasses throughout the property.

Above: A tightly edited plant list (including sugar maples, fothergilla, and shadblow serviceberry) connects the landscape to the surrounding woods and fields and provides visual unity. One hundred Eastern white pines were also planted to form a backdrop and complement the mature white pine already in place. Where possible crab apples, already on the property were integrated.

Above: The four, new, fieldstone walls on the property were constructed using locally sourced stones carefully chosen for its character and appearance. All new walls utilized stones that were intentionally larger and rough-hewn to blend with the rustic surroundings. Some show a combination of “faces,” some are naturally weathered, while others show a tooled edge; all so that the newly built wall feels older.

Above: The hillside was seeded with a meadow mix; in early summer lupine and daisy offset the granite steps. The stairs are made from locally sourced, salvaged granite for an authentic look.

Above: More lupine and grass create a soft border along the granite steps.

Above: The view from the upper lawn overlooks the family terrace—the most enclosed and intimate part of the landscape—as well as the farmland beyond. The patio surface is made of natural cleft bluestone. Plantings include Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus), shadblow serviceberry (Amelanchier), and lupine.

Above: In front of the shingle-style house built by Albert, Righter & Tittman Architects, a line of sugar maple trees and another newly built fieldstone wall shelter a generous lawn, the main outdoor living and recreation space.

Above: The outdoor dining table features a somewhat more loosely constructed stone wall of its own.

Above: Trimmed at the bottom, the lawn’s border of trees still allows one to take in the view of the fields below.

Above: Nestled into the hillside meadow, the house takes full advantage of the open view.

Above: A bee harvests nectar from one of the many lupines that boom in early summer.

Above: Along the driveway leading to the house, red oak (Quercus rubra) and white pine were planted in a natural, staggered sequence to blend with mature white pine already on the property. “The goal was to create a landscape that looks like a natural outgrowth of the wooded edge just beyond.”

Above: Planted among the grasses along the drive, lupine and daisies provide a bit of color and cheer.

Above: The plantings around the site were deliberately restricted, both to reflect what was already there and to enhance the open, natural appearance of the site.

Above: Wild grasses sway in the breeze and frame the view of the farm fields beyond.

If you’re designing a garden on a slope, see our Hardscapes 101 guide to Retaining Walls 101. Here are more of our favorites featuring rustic stone walls:

• Hardscaping 101: Dry Stone Walls
• Landscape Designer Visit: Spirals in Stone on the Cornish Coast by Mary Reynolds
• Architect Visit: An Irish Stone Stable in a Dramatic Landscape
• Garden Visit: A Revolutionary Landscape in Concord, MA

Our 1,000-square-foot backyard garden in the Brooklyn neighborhood of Carroll Gardens is now in its third summer. But by the end of September we must move, and I must decide what plants come with us when we go. This will be our fourth move with a garden in tow. The nature of rental real estate is such that you can’t plan too far in advance, generally signing a lease within 30 days of the move date. So while we are actively looking, we do not yet know where we are going to live. Will the new garden space be sunny or shady? Big or tiny? In-ground or on a rooftop? I have plants to fit every scenario. Way too many plants. And no plant will be left behind.

To make lemonade out of this batch of lemons (actually, I like lemons), I am planning to throw an August plant adoption party for the pots and plants that don’t make the cut. There will be botanical cocktails, there will be fond farewells. I won’t cry.

Here’s a visit to the summer garden. It looks a lot different from when we moved in.

Photography by Marie Viljoen.

Above: I began growing airy, annual Nicotiana mutabilis—one of the ornamental tobaccos—in our Harlem garden, using it for seasonal height and also in the hopes of luring hummingbirds (it worked).

Beyond it, the side borders and vegetable garden are rambunctious. Quite apart from gardening for pleasure (and therapy), I grow some more unusual edible plants experimentally, for the first-hand experience I need when advising others to cultivate them. How does common milkweed behave? What about nettles? Are ramps impossible to cultivate? Can you grow your own fiddleheads? (You will find the answers in Forage, Harvest, Feast, my new wild foods cookbook.)

Above: The potted area of the garden enjoys (suffers?) an extreme combination of intense sun and deep shade.

It took me at least a year to figure it all out. These pots see about six hours of sun a day from late spring to late summer (none in fall and winter) and the mix that thrives right now includes pineapples lilies (Eucomis species), calamintha, dahlias, lilies, and flowering tobacco.

Above: Pineapple lilies have won my heart. While they are slow to start, by high summer they are in bloom, and their juicy flower spikes stay attractive through fall.

That’s a very good return on investment. Pollinators love them. In five hours of summer sun this collection of pots includes perilla, purple basil (which appreciates some relief from hot sun), and stalwart begonias. Last winter some of the potted pineapple lily bulbs rotted, despite being technically hardy here (USDA zone 7b). Pots are extreme environments and the freeze-thaw cycle in them is far more brutal than for the same plants in-ground, just a few yards away. The bulbs stored in the fridge’s crisper drawer were fine. Left in their pots, a chilly basement would be ideal.

Above: Lilium ‘White Butterflies’ is $15 per bulb at the Lily Garden.

Lilies have bloomed in all my New York gardens. They take well to containers, and different types offer a sequence of bloom from late spring to late summer.

Above: In winter these pots look barren (even if a perennial is lurking beneath their topping of mulch). But by summer they resemble the hedgerow I intended, a place rich with foliage, flowers and the bustling lives of beneficial insects, as well as their prey.

I garden organically, without herbicides or pesticides and the reward is a host of hoverflies, lacewings, ladybugs, many kinds of bees, and butterflies (somehow, I never see the caterpillars…). The shrubs include native arrowwood viburnum (Viburnum dentatum), elderberries and serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) and are planted in terra cotta pots 18 inches in diameter.

Above: In the rear third of the garden I plant in the narrow beds that existed when we moved in.

The lilies include statuesque ‘Silk Road’ and ‘Ice Palace’. Between them swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata) is a magnet for bees and butterflies. Liatris, cleome and daylilies share the space.

Above: White-and-lemon ‘Madame Butterfly’  ($7.50 from The Lily Garden) is one of my new favorite lilies, with ‘Scheherazade’ in the background.

Above: This year the Thai limes were attacked by scale, and when the trees were moved outdoors the scale insects seemed delighted and doubled their population. I was thinking dark thoughts about applying systemic  poison (breaking all my own rules), when one day this fierce little warbler (a common yellowthroat) arrived, on spring migration. He was joined by friends. I sat and watched the birds hunt and snap up beakfuls of scale. I could not have scripted it any better. It was wonderful. The trees were cured.

Edible plants: In winter my Thai limes (Citrus hystrix) overwinter indoors in a sunny room, along with a Meyer lemon, a finger lime, pots of curry leaf trees, and cardamom.

Above: Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca) is a glorious perennial, growing from underground runners. I grow the plant because I view it as an outstanding American vegetable, from its shoots, to its buds, flowers, and pods.

The flowers are strikingly beautiful, richly scented, and filled with nectar. And monarch butterfly larvae feed on milkweed leaves. It grows aggressively, which is why it is often viewed as a weed, but I control it by simply pulling up the shoots that pop up where they are not wanted.

Above: Because milkweed can grow very tall I planted peas nearby so that the legumes and the milkweed could share an expandable pea trellis for support. The peas also fix nitrogen, cutting down on the need for additional fertilizer. An Expandable Pea Trellis is $48.89 from Gardener’s Supply.

Above: I save some milkweed pods for seed, and eat the rest (blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds to dispel the latex from the cut end, then roast, deep fry, or sauté).

Milkweed dislikes being transplanted so adopting these ones out will be a challenge, even though they are in high demand. The good news is that even if the plants’ leaves wither and fall soon after transplanting, the underground runners will still be at work, and will survive to appear next spring. This is not a good candidate for a potted garden, because those runners really like to, well, run. (Try swamp milkweed, instead.)

Above: While most of vegetable patch is given over to rows of garlic and greens like arugula and lettuce, this year I tried tomatoes, despite that six-hour sun limit. Cherry tomatoes need less sun to ripen than larger varieties, and have done very well, bursting right out of their tomato cages.

Above: Sub tropical edibles share space with more familiar shade lovers like hostas, native ferns, heucheras and snakeroot, and begonias. The curry leaf tree (center, rear, with pinnately compound leaves) loves humid summers and puts out lush new growth after an indoor winter.

Myogo ginger and so-called Vietnamese cilantro (Persicaria odorata) thrive. Prickly ash grows here, too – Zanthoxylum americanum is the American species of Sichuan pepper.

Above: In the long summer evenings we eat outside every night, and watch the evolving pageant of garden life. In mid June fireflies begin to light up like airborne and electrical punctuation, bright apostrophes in the twilight. Katydids, crickets, and cicadas arrive next, providing a late summer soundtrack.

Giant dragonflies zoom high above us, like a squadron miniaturized drones, performing crazed maneuvers in pursuit of their prey: mosquitoes. We cheer. Above the rooftops, chimney swifts chatter as they catch insects and talk with their beaks full. If we are very lucky, we see a neighborhood possum, walking along the wires strung between buildings (since opossums love to eat ticks and do not carry rabies, we are fans. Also, we think they they are cute.)

The uncertainty of a move is stressful, but I have to remind myself that I have done this before, and I can do it again. But we feel our migratory rental lives are coming to an end. This will be the last move to a place we do not own. It is time to put down real roots.

Where will the next garden be? Which plants will stay and which will be adopted?

If you stick around, you may find out…

The appeal of anything plastic is that you can keep it clean by hosing it down with water. The Swedes were onto this idea back in the 1970s when colorful plastic PVC ribbons were paired with traditional looms for an easy to clean and mold resistant rug that works just as well in the kitchen as it does on the porch or in the garden.

There are a few Scandinavian rug companies still putting plastic to use, and others who now use ribbons recycled from plastic water bottles and straws. The rugs are all made without heavy metals or toxic softeners, and can be kept clean with the garden hose or a standard washing machine. Here are our 10 favorites.

Above: Designed by Elisabeth Dunker for Fine Little Day, the Water Lilies Plastic Rug is woven from plastic foil and polyester in Sweden. It comes in three sizes with prices ranging from $100 to $178 at Fine Little Day.

Above: The Pappelina Linn Plastic Rug is made from phthalate-free PVC ribbon and polyester wrap in Dalarna, Sweden, on a traditional loom. It’s available in three different sizes by ordering directly through Pappelina.

Above: Another style from Swedish brand Pappelina is the nautical-looking Duo Plastic Rug, shown in Coral Red and Vanilla. It’s also made in Sweden from phthalate-free PVC and polyester and is available in a 2.75-by-5.25-foot size for $250 at Fjørn Scandinavian.

Above: The Åre Rug Orange by industrial designer Sofie Sjöström is made of PVC plastic threads and polyester rug warp. It comes in two sizes with prices ranging from $94 to $180 for the runner at Scandinavian Design Center.

Above: The XL Gittan Rug in Clay from Brita Sweden is made of soft plastic foil PVC and measures 200 by 300 centimeters (or about 6.5 by 10 feet) for $999.09 AUD at Habitat Home Collection in Australia. You can also order the rug directly from Brita Sweden.

Above: The Eternity MultiColor Stripes Rug is made of PET fibers from recycled plastic bottles and available in a range of shapes and sizes with prices from £83 to £289 at Green Decore in the UK.

Above: The Samsara Black and White Rug from Fab Habitat is made of polypropylene from recycled straws; $69 for the 2.5 by 8 foot size at Fab Habitat.

Above: The Flora Rug Spring from Nordic Nest is made of PVC and polyester and comes in three sizes priced from $129 to $241 at Scandinavian Design Center.

Above: The Brita Sweden Flower Rug, shown in Flower Sun, is woven in Sweden from soft plastic thread. Sizes run from the smallest doormat to the 5.5-by-8-foot size for 4,985 SEK at Brita Sweden. It’s also available at Huset Shop in the US.

Above: Another design from Nordic Nest is the Woods Rug Black in a classic black-and-white stripe made of PVC and polyester. Prices range from $129 to $241 at Scandinavian Design Center.

• 10 Easy Pieces: Graphic Outdoor Rugs
• 10 Easy Pieces: Striped Outdoor Rugs
• 10 Easy Pieces: Indoor-Outdoor Jute Rugs
• 10 Easy Pieces: Glamorous Black Doormats

Russian Sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia

Neither truly Russian nor a sage, Perovskia atriplicifolia holds its own when it comes to being a trustworthy, drought-tolerant shrub useful in a variety of sun-filled landscape designs. In 1995, Russian sage received the Perennial Plant of the Year award, and rightly so. If you have ever grown this plant, you will agree that it posses numerous lovable merits.  And if you are new to the scene, please let me introduce you two.

Keep reading to learn more about this well-deserving shrub:

Above: Echinacea varieties and hazy purple Perovskia atriplicifolia (Russian sage) mingle in designer Piet Oudolf’s garden at Hummelo. Photograph courtesy of My Garden School.

Native to Central Asian countries, and named in honor of the Russian General V.A. Pokorski, Russian sage is a member of the illustrious mint family, and like other mint family members, the woody stems and leaves are very aromatic. Russian sage, as the second half of the name hints, smells similar to crushed sage—though is not recommended for cooking. But back to the mint family. Mints like to spread, and Russian sage can attempt world domination if given the right opportunity, so take this as a polite warning.

Above: Photograph by Marie Viljoen.

Russian sage exudes elegant wispy wands of lavender blue flowers from finely-textured silvery green leaves. This hardy and airy beauty blooms from summer to fall, and does an excellent job filling in the empty spaces or acting as that sometimes much needed vertical element. Tip: plant in clusters (en masse) for intensification of its presence and to provide much-needed neighbor support to avoid the possible and inevitable floppiness. Russian sage, due to its fragrant nature, is predictably resilient to deer, rabbits, and other smaller creatures. The one possible downside is that Russian sage is deciduous, but you two will be happily reunited in the spring.

Above: After new construction left stone rubble in its wake, garden designer James Basson used the old stone to make terrace walls and planted hardy perennials, such as Russian sage, capable of thriving in the dry, rocky conditions. See more in 10 Garden Ideas to Steal from Provence.

Cheat Sheet

• Russian sage attracts butterflies and bees and is  dramatic as an unsung cut flower.
• Combines perfectly with other low water plants like lavender, sedum, and ornamental grasses, even pairs nicely with bold leafed succulents like large agaves and aloes.
• At home in deer-visited, Mediterranean themed gardens, Russian sage also fits in with xeriscapes, hillsides, and rock landscapes.

Above: For more of this garden, see Rehab Diaries: The Resurrection of a Medieval Nobleman’s Garden. Photograph by Dario Fusaro via Cristiana Ruspa

Keep It Alive

• Site Russian sage in a sunny spot with well-draining soil. Dislikes soggy sites. Water weekly to encourage deep roots. Successfully grown in USDA zones 5 to 9.
• Vigorous growth from 3 to 4 feet tall and wide.
• Low maintenance and zero fertilizer needed. Prune low (several inches above ground level) in the very early spring to promote dense growth and prolific bloom. Also, after waiting a few months you will be rewarded with silvery interest during the stark winter scene.

See more growing tips in Russian Sage: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design. Read more in our curated Garden Design 101 guides:

• Perennials: A Field Guide for Planting, Care & Design
• Garden Design: Learning to Plant the Piet Oudolf Way

The winner of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards Best Professional Landscape is Liz Pulver Design for her Room to Breathe in Brooklyn project.

The project was chosen as a finalist by Gardenista editor Michelle Slatalla, who noted how the “roof garden and velvety green backyard create a remarkable respite from the noise and grit of New York City. A rooftop turned into a garden is an investment in the future, creating habitats for birds and a bonus layer of insulation for a house.”

N.B.: This is the third of six posts spotlighting the winners of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards. Go to this year’s Considered Design Awards page to see all the entries, finalists, and winners, and have a look at the Remodelista Considered Design Awards.

Photography by Oresti Tsonopoulos.

Above: “From the balcony above, you’re drawn downward, toward an inviting lawn and garden.”

Liz Pulver Design’s Design Statement: “On a tree-lined street in Brooklyn Heights, a family dreamt of a lush, green garden to come home to—a refuge from the city.”

Above: “From the kitchen balcony, generous stairs bring you down to the garden.”

Gardenista: What does your firm specialize in?
Liz Pulver Design: We specialize in designing unique, customized gardens and outdoor spaces that make you sigh in relief as you walk out the door.

GD: Who worked on the winning project?
LPD: Liz Pulver was the landscape architect and lead designer for the gardens and green roof. Town & Gardens Ltd. was the landscape contractor responsible for the landscape installation. They are involved in ongoing care as well. Kevin Dakan Architect was the architect for the townhouse and new kitchen addition, over which the green roof happily lives. Oresti Tsonopoulos was the photographer.

Above: “Window boxes filled with elephant ears and trailing helichrysum greet you from the sidewalk. A Japanese stewartia tree settles in, pushing upward into dappled light. Once you go up the steps and through the front door, you leave your day behind.”

GD: What were your practical goals for the project?
LPD: In the front, we wanted to create a welcoming garden—for the clients as they arrived home, for their guests, and for the neighborhood. As you know, the gardens and window boxes of Brooklyn Heights are pretty amazing to behold, and our client wanted to contribute to that neighborhood experience.

From inside the house, we wanted to maximize views to the garden and green roof wherever possible. It’s so important to connect the inside and outside visually. This makes the interior spaces feel larger and more connected to nature.

In the rear yard, we wanted to create a lush, restful garden, include space for outdoor living, and a lawn for play. With a new balcony and staircase being added off of the back of the townhouse, space was at a premium. The green roof idea evolved with the project and sits over the kitchen addition, just outside the baby’s bedroom windows.

Above: “This unexpected patch of rooftop garden provides a much needed buffer from the city beyond.”

GD: What solutions did you find to your design problems?
LPD: One challenge was that the client wanted a lawn in the rear yard design. We knew that would be difficult to accomplish, because lawns don’t always thrive in townhouse gardens in the city. Frequently, lawns get “shaded out” by all the surrounding buildings. Lawns also need frequent mowing, and a lawn mower takes up valuable storage space in a small garden! So, as an alternative, we recommended using synthetic turf for the lawn. Synthetic turf (aka “Astroturf”) has come a long way and looks very convincing as a lawn; no mowing required! The client was willing to try it and, so far, it has been a great solution for them.

Above: “The foliage and textures are constantly changing with the seasons, bringing year-round variation.”

Q: What are your favorite features of the project?
LPD: The green roof is a favorite. It’s such an unexpected surprise to catch sight of a rooftop meadow from inside the house. It’s a great buffer to the city beyond.

The simple stone seat wall and lawn are a soft, curving contrast to the boxy angles all around you. Wrapped with ferns and plantings, it makes for an inviting space.

There is a large azalea shrub in the garden and when we first got involved with the project, the client told us how much they loved it. They really wanted to keep it in their future garden. We knew it would be very hard to guarantee its success if we left it there during construction, so the landscape contractor suggested temporarily transplanting it and maintaining it off-site. When the garden was finally ready for planting—nearly a year later—the azalea was brought in and planted. It has thrived in the garden and having such a mature specimen amid newer plantings helped the garden feel established quickly and it was very meaningful to the client.

Above: “Mounds of gray-green catmint, scented thyme, and tufts of purple heuchera fill your view. Birds and bugs flit and fly. Mexican feather grass sways in the breeze. Things feel calmer and quieter. The sounds of the city become muffled.”

GD: What were the hardest lessons you learned along the way?
LPD: Building gardens in NYC is always a feat! You are essentially bringing an entire landscape and all its components through a home and up and down a lot of stairs. The green roof on this project was located up three flights of stairs and only accessible through a bedroom window! So all of the soils, plants, tools, and materials were bagged, wrapped, and brought up the stairs and out the window. The install team climbed through the window too! There are inherently issues along the way and these sorts of installations are a reminder of how critical good planning with a team of experienced professionals is to the success of a project.

GD: What advice do you have for someone else undertaking a similar project?
LPD: Investing in your garden and outdoor spaces can vastly improve your outlook on life! But the process of getting there can be daunting. Put together a great team of people to help you navigate it including qualified design professionals, contractors, and installers. Alternatively, if you prefer to take on a project yourself or tackle it in phases, consider consulting with a design professional for an overview of the typical process on a project like yours, any local guidelines or requirements, and recommendations for the best approach. They can also be a resource for qualified installers. As you get started, take the time to meet and interview your team, check references, and find the right fit for your project and budget. You’re making a substantial investment in your property and your well being, and you want it to be right.

Above: “Upstairs in the baby’s room, you glimpse another patch of green through the window.”

GD: What is your favorite local shop or garden nursery?
LPD: When I’m in the city, I’ll head to the Flower District on 28th Street, just to see what plants are on display there. I love the mix of exterior and interior plants, cut flowers, and the Hollywood-esque characters roaming the streets. In Brooklyn, I enjoy local spots like Gardel’s Garden in Fort Greene and the Natty Garden. Both have great go-to plants for city conditions and very knowledgeable staff. Gowanus Nursery in Red Hook has provocative perennials and pots. And the gift shop at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden is fun too—lots of little interior plants to take home, products by local artisans, something for everyone.

GD: Where do you get your design inspiration?
LPD: Day to day, my sources for design inspiration are garden and design magazines, books, Instagram, and a daily dose of Gardenista in the morning. But, for a full reboot and complete design refresh, I need to travel. I love to visit parks, gardens, nurseries, garden stores, museums, and galleries; eat, drink, wander, fully immerse myself, and talk to lots of people in new places. It’s fascinating to see how people live and garden in Mexico City, what pots and products they’re using in Barcelona, and what plants they’re excited about in San Francisco.

Maine’s newest farmers are doing it all: When thirtysomethings Katee Lafleur and Andrew White found a 35-acre property on Maine Farm Link, it housed a rambling 1835 farmhouse in need of an update and an early 19th-century barn in danger of falling in, all at the end of a two-mile-long dirt road, 24 miles from the coast in Maine’s wooded midcoast region.

Just two years later, High Ridge Farm is thrumming with activity: The couple has turned the land into a self-sustaining farm with produce, herbs, flowers, chickens, and pigs; they’ve shored up the barn (complete with a new foundation and root cellar) and updated the farmhouse room by room, with a new kitchen still to come and rooms for rent on Airbnb (see the full interiors on Remodelista). And they serve up taco nights on Fridays and Sunday night land-to-table dinners once a month, in which everything they grow appears on the plate, and the cider they press from old apple orchards fills the glasses.

Here are 13 ideas to take away, even if you don’t have a rambling farm in midcoast Maine.

Photography by Greta Rybus for Gardenista.

1. Leave it a little wild.

Above: At High Ridge Farm the gardens aren’t overly kept. Instead the farmhouse is surrounded by tall meadows. (Need advice? See Ask the Expert: How to Plant a Meadow Garden.)

2. Cut and split your own wood.

Above: Woodstoves are the house’s only heat source through the cold Maine winters. In keeping with their do-it-yourself ethos, the couple cuts and splits all of their firewood themselves from the woods that surround the farmhouse.

3. Embrace works in progress.

Above: Since moving in, Lafleur and White have tackled the exterior of the farmhouse piece by piece, as they can, between farming and serving as a popular gathering place for the community. “We’ve just been chipping away at painting over the blue trim that existed—and still exists in all the places our ladder won’t reach—to move toward monochromatic white trim and white clapboard,” Lafleur says.

4. Add a standing-seam metal roof.

Above: A major upgrade: the standing-steam metal roof, added last summer. “It’s a common, practical option in this climate,” Lafleur says. “In the winter, when the sun hits the roof, any accumulated snow slides down in these neat sheets.” (See Hardscaping 101: Standing Seam Metal Roofs.)

5. Use everything.

Above: A bleached jawbone greets visitors at the front door. In the spirit of using what they grow, animal bones and hides throughout the interiors—and exteriors—are remnants from the couple’s own animals: a flock of sheep kept during the first year and a half at High Ridge Farm and, Lafleur says, “things raised or found on past ranches and farms I’ve worked at.” (Their two dogs, Sola and Massimo, like to gnaw on the occasional bone once an animal has been butchered.)

6. Give chickens free reign.

Above: No cages here: The couple’s meat birds are pasture-raised.

7. Raise pigs in the woods.

Above: Pigs, too, are raised in pastures and in the woods, and spend “365 days a year outside, on the land,” the farmers say. “As we rotate them from paddock to paddock, they regenerate depleted and marginal farmland while producing delicious, healthful meat at the same time.” They eat, among other things, apple pomace, the pulp left over from the cider press. (Read more about the High Ridge hogs here.)

8. Let the dogs have the run of the place.

Above: Massimo and Sola have free reign and help to keep the pigs in line.

9. Grow what you want to eat.

Above: In addition to birds and hogs, the couple tends an acre of vegetables, herbs, and flowers “using a permanent bed, low-till system,” they say. Among the crops: tomatillos for salsa and, soon, corn for tortillas.

10. Restore old barns.

Above: When Lafleur and White found it, the early-19th-century barn was in bad shape. “It was teetering on a fieldstone foundation, the sills were rotted, the floor had caved in, and it had subsequently begun to lean,” Lafleur says. But the frame and roof were in good shape. “We decided to jack it up and pour a foundation and a concrete root cellar that now doubles as winery and walk-in cool space for vegetables and flowers,” Lafleur says. The barn also houses the cider press.

11. Serve dinner where it’s grown.

Above: Rather than cart their meats, salumi, and produce to restaurants or farmers’ markets, Lafleur and White believe in serving their food where it’s grown. Hence: the community dinners in the barn, with taco nights every Friday and community dinners one Sunday a month.

“What you see on the land, you’ll find on your plate—and in your glass,” the couple says, and they mean it, down to the tiniest component. For example: “The taco is the vessel through which we sell everything we grow and raise, process, and put up,” they explain, including the meat (and the braise it’s cooked in), the tomatillos and jalapeños for the salsa verde, the lettuces and scallions, and, soon, the corn for the tortillas. (For more info, see the food and drink offerings here.)

12. Forage for wild cider.

Above: The couple also serves “foraged, wild-fermented” cider by the glass, made from “wild and heirloom apple varieties” from old orchards they happen upon in the area, which are then pressed in the barn and bottled. This year, they’re serving the bottling from their first year on the farm, called “Feet on the Ground,” also available in their tasting room.

13. Kick back (occasionally).

Above: A hammock hung in the loft of the barn, for rare moments of rest.

More gardens and farms in the great state of Maine:

• 11 Garden Ideas to Steal from the Coast of Maine.
• Curb Appeal: A Classic New England Color Palette on Spruce Head in Maine.
• Landscape Architect Visit: Clamshell Alley on the Coast of Maine.

Mexican feather grass looks like a hazy smudge of golden color in the distance, and who wouldn’t want that as a backdrop in the garden?

Like other grasses in the Stipa genus, Mexican feather grass develops delicate pale green flowers which turn wheat-colored, at the tips of stems that move in a breeze. In addition to looking beautiful, it requires little water, intermingles easily with other perennials, and will provide structure in a garden bed nearly year-round.

In addition to Mexican feather grass (Stipa tenuissima or Nassella tenuissima), there are many other useful varieties of feather grasses; heights, colors, and growing tendencies differ. For landscaping ideas, here are a dozen of our favorite gardens with feather grasses:

Gauzy Backdrop

Above: Photograph by Michelle Slatalla.

White flowers with yellow centers pop against a backdrop of Mexican feather grass. In my garden, I planted a bed of grasses and low-water perennials including Echinacea ‘White Swan.’  To recreate the look, plant a mix of Echinacea purpurea ‘White Swan’ ($12.95 apiece from White Flower Farm) and Stipa Tenuissima ($10.99 apiece from High Country Gardens). Both ship for fall planting.

Slope Softener

Above: Photograph courtesy of Robert Kennett.

A variety of grasses, including feathery Stipa gigantea, solve problems in a Dorset garden sited “mostly on an exposed, north-facing slope,” says UK-based designer Robert Kennett.  “This border looks particularly dazzling when its architectural shapes are covered in frost.” A 4-inch pot of Stipa Gigantea available seasonally from Annie’s Annuals for $8.95.

Breezy Buffer

Above: Photograph courtesy of Robert Kennett.

In the same Dorset garden, designer Robert Kennett planted Mexican feather grass at the front of a border to “billow in the breeze…for a dynamic dimension.”

Driveway Border

Above: Photograph by Morgan Satterfield.

Mexican feather grass planted alongside the driveway helps “soften things up and disguises the ugly fence,” says blogger Morgan Satterfield, who replaced her lawn with a grant from the local water district. For more, see Home Turf: Goodbye to a Front Lawn.

Defining Moment

Above: Photograph by Dennis Burnett courtesy of Tait Moring & Associates.

Mexican feather grass is planted in clumps at the edge of Austin, Texas-based landscape architect Tait Moring’s driveway. See more in Landscape Architect Visit: At Home with Tait Moring in Austin, TX.

Movement Matters

Above:  Photograph by Rob Co.

Garden designer Jennifer Segale planted Mexican feather grass in pots in her own garden: “Stipa and other grasses give movement, which I find is incredibly important in container gardens,” she says. “Clusters of potted plants can feel heavy and stagnant without a feeling of openness and ample movement.” For more, see Garden Visit: My Driveway Oasis in Half Moon Bay, California.

Up on the Roof

Above: Photograph by Marni Majorelle.

In Brooklyn’s Fort Greene neighborhood, designer Marni Majorelle of Alive Structures created a wild, naturalistic tapestry for a rooftop garden atop a townhouse.  For more, see Brooklyn Oasis: A City Roof Garden, Before & After.

Purple Pros

Above: Photograph by Dario Fusaro via Cristiana Ruspa.

In this garden bed, plants include silvery Artemisia ‘Powis Castle’, perennial grass Stipa tenuissima, and purple spikes of Russian sage. For more, see Rehab Diaries: The Resurrection of a Medieval Nobleman’s Garden.

To recreate the look, Artemisia Powis Castle is $5.95 apiece and a low-growing variety of Russian sage, Perovskia ‘Little Spire’, is $6.95 apiece; both available from Santa Rosa Gardens.

Winter Gardens

Above: Photograph via Hummelo courtesy of The Monacelli Press.

In winter, Dutch designer Piet Oudolf leaves perennial grasses standing to create moody textures and silvery color in the landscape.

Layered Look

Above: Photograph by Dario Fusaro via Cristiana Ruspa.

At the front of a garden bed in northern Italy designed by Turin-based Cristiana Ruspa, a clump of Stipa tenuissima shoots up like a flame against the lower profiles of artemisia and shorter grasses.

Tough Customer

Above: Stipa tenuifolia will grow in happy clumps even in poor soil. For more, see 10 Easy Pieces: Tough Perennials for City Gardens. Photograph courtesy of Wikimedia.

For more of our favorite ways to use grasses in a garden, see Grasses: A Field Guide to Planting, Care & Design in our Garden Design 101 guides. Read more:

•  Leaves of Grass: 9 Ways to Create Curb Appeal with Perennial Grasses
• Gardening 101: How to Care for Perennial Grasses

The winner of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards Best Outdoor Living Space is Kristin Barlowe-Clauer for her Garden Birdhouse for Kids Big & Small project.

The project was chosen as a finalist by Gardenista editor Michelle Slatalla, who had this to say: “Using reclaimed materials and DIY ingenuity, a father built a stylish kids’ clubhouse to turn an unloved corner of the garden into a much-used family space.”

N.B.: This is the fourth of six posts spotlighting the winners of the 2018 Gardenista Considered Design Awards. Go to this year’s Considered Design Awards page to see all the entries, finalists, and winners, and have a look at the Remodelista Considered Design Awards.

Above: “We used the same materials as our fence—kiln-dried deck boards—stained the same color as the fence and house. The roof is cedar remnants from our friend’s roofing company. Vintage family toys litter the space.”

Kristin Barlowe-Clauer’s Design Statement: “Problem: A never used, very awkward, wet, weed-filled corner outside my home office. Needed: A cool “kid” space whose use could evolve with age, allow me to work, and visually blend from the street. My hubby James took my sketch, his vacation, and a lot of weekends to finish this garden birdhouse.”

Above: “Outdoor rugs, cushions, and furniture hold up to the elements and kids. Lots of art supplies, games, walkie-talkies, and dominoes keep them busy. String lights and a lantern let them hang after dark. The narrow window is often used when they play store. And the left is the exit to the fire pole.”

Gardenista: Where do you live?
Kristin Barlowe-Clauer: Sylvan Park is a quiet residential neighborhood just four miles west of downtown Nashville. We renovated our Craftsman bungalow, which sits on a quarter-acre corner lot, a few years ago. It was filled with weeds, dead trees, and dying shrubs, so all but two trees had to be scrapped. We have planted loads of trees and plantings and have a large front yard and backyard. This side yard has the birdhouse fort and is tucked in between the bomb shelter (now a raised garden) and front fence.

GD: What were your practical goals for the project?
KBC: Less work. More fun. I needed a place for the kids to hang while I worked. In addition, I was sick of dealing with this awkward unused space that always required upkeep and created no joy. It was filled with weeds, grass didn’t grow well, and no one besides the HVAC guy ever went there. The challenge was that this spot is set back along the front of our house and faces the street, so I didn’t want anything that would be an eyesore or become dated. We needed to create something that would blend with the existing home, be timeless, and could have a life after young kids.

Above: “The stainless steel pole holds up to weather and is smooth for bare skin. The climbing area has enough room for two to climb.”

GD: What solutions did you find to your design problems?
KBC: The birdhouse is a classic object, so that is where I started. We used gable pitch—like our home—and used the same materials as the fence. Then we painted it all the same color so that it blends into the surroundings. It’s also tucked just behind a newly-planted tree. It’s a surprise to most people as many say they didn’t notice it even if they had walked by the house many times. I also wanted some of the kid features to be hidden from view—like the fire pole and climbing wall. They are tucked in next to the shared fence and behind a large tree. This provides a good deal of shade most of the day and also means you don’t notice them from any prominent vantage point. With two kids they often need their own spaces, so we designed it to have two levels. There are places to sit, read, and play so they can keep busy.

Above: “The birdhouse sits in its own little spot in the corner of the yard. Kids can hang while the adults hang out in the fire pit area beyond by that garage.”

GD: What are your favorite features of the project?
KBC: I love how it relates to the property and is fairly camouflaged against the fence, and with just a little hole to peek out of toward the street, it has an element of surprise. It looks like a birdhouse from that point. Yet, on the reverse, it is wide open to the backyard. I also like that it doesn’t stare into our neighbors’ space or backyard, so it is not intrusive to them, which I took into consideration when picking the spot and deciding where things like the upper deck and openings would go.

Above: “The second level also stays pretty dry. An Ikea locker holds a lot, including my husband’s vintage Tonka trucks. Our son has outgrown them but the younger neighbor kids love them. The outdoor pouf is another place to sit.”

GD: What advice do you have for someone undertaking a similar project?
KBC: Try to think of a life beyond little kid age. I can see the kids reading, studying, or lounging with friends in the birdhouse. For me, I could see myself making this a quiet retreat with a hammock or floor pillows. The bottom could be an extension of the garden with a potting area. Not much is different between producing a video or commercial and creating a space. Do you want it good, fast, or cheap? You can only pick two. We wanted good and cheap, so it took us a while to get it to this point.

Above: “The gymnastics bar is connected to the back of the birdhouse and to the fence. My office windows look directly out to the space, so I can work and referee when needed.”

GD: What was your biggest splurge?
KBC: Materials like the kiln-dried deck boards and the stainless steel fire pole and bar were the biggest ticket items. Even if a friend hadn’t given us one heck of a deal on the metals work, the material upgrade was worth it. Because we built and designed it, we saved on a lot on labor. My husband’s high school friend owns a local company called Above All Roofing, and he donated leftover cedar for our roof. It was really sweet that we had some help from friends.

GD: What projects would you tackle if you had an unlimited budget?
KBC: Oh jeez the list! At home I’d love to build what we call “the shed” into a cool hangout space. I love our cabin and the lake, so the big dream project would be a mountain lake resort filled with cool tiny cabins connected by paths with secret spaces, tree houses, hidden gardens, and other surprises scattered about. It would feature the natural surroundings and make them the star of every space and place.

Above: The view of the birdhouse from the street.

GD: What is your day job?
KBC: Director and photographer for music and commercial clients. My husband, James, is a writer/director/producer at CMT.

GD: Where do you get your design inspiration?
KBC: I saw an amazing story of a Japanese birdhouse in the forest. It is meant for both birds and humans, if I remember right, and you can stay the night there. I just thought it looked so interesting—like a little sculpture—yet weirdly natural in the setting. It popped back into my head as I was trying to think of this kids space.

“I would really rather feel bad in Maine than feel good anywhere else,” wrote E. B. White, with no further explanation necessary. This week the Remodelista editors found design inspiration along craggy shorelines and in velvet-green forests. Here are their five favorite design ideas to steal from Maine.

Woodstoves

Above: In a kitchen designed “with maximum efficiency in mind, particularly for the long Maine winters, heat from the woodstove—the house’s only heat source—rises through the ceiling into the sleeping loft above, then is pulled back downward through a floor grate to create a convection heating system for the whole house,” writes Annie. Photograph by Greta Rybus.

See more in our Kitchen of the Week post, featuring builder Anthony Esteves and designer Julie O’Rourke’s home on the island of Spruce Head in Maine.

Trundle Beds

Above: A Room & Board Steel Twin Trundle Bed ($399) rolls out on wheels from underneath the Parsons Twin Bed($599); both shown in natural steel.

Spatter-Painted Floors

Above: “Here on Cape Cod (where I’m lucky enough to spend the summer), splatter- or spatter-painted floors are so common that we take them for granted,” writes Justine. Photograph by Matthew Williams.

See step-by-step instructions in DIY: New England Spatter-Painted Floors.

Copper Colanders

Above: A Copper Colander with a stainless steel interior is $12.99 at World Market.

Forest-Inspired Bed Linens

Above: A “new soft goods company from a native Mainer and veteran of the textile industry, has a collection inspired by the state’s wilds, rocky coasts, and pine forests,” writes Annie.

Read more in Into the Wild: Evangeline Linens in Portland, Maine.

As you’re soaking up the last gasps of August this weekend, here are 10 things to know about, plus more goings-on.

Above: Sunny daisies in a meadow, captured by Justine on a recent summer day. For more snapshots of her garden walk, see Garden Visit: A Revolutionary Landscape in Concord, MA.

• Weeds 1, Westchester County 0: One of America’s richest counties can’t keep the grass mowed at bus stops.
• Do you like to snap photos of bunnies? Enter this photo contest immediately for positive reinforcement.
• An argument for garden gnomes? Sorry, we’re not buying it.
• In Brussels, they really, really love their begonias.
• What $50,000 buys in the garden: a radical backyard makeover.
• Margot spotted this new kind of botanical pasta, flowers included.
• Now open: Terrain’s latest outpost in Devon, Pennyslvania. In the area? Check out their outdoor movies, dinners, and garden events.
• Are you agonizing over whether to conserve or consign your mom’s fancy china? Read how Gardenista editor in chief Michelle Slatella solved the dilemma in her latest interior design column in The Wall Street Journal.
• Sturdy made-in-Maine outdoor wares, made of rope.
• And, a glimpse inside the Maine restaurant you have to get lost to find.

Plus, plant swaps:

• Today in Pasadena at Folia Collective: propagation workshop and cuttings swap.
• Today in San Diego.
• Today in Omaha, Nebraska, at Mulhall’s.
• Tomorrow in Durham, NC.
• And a 24/7 option for swappers: swap one-on-one.

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